Could this be an underlying trend? In spring 2023, the “discreet luxury” movement appears following Gwyneth Paltrow’s trial for a skiing accident. The actress then left her mark by wearing outfits of timeless chic every day in court, free of any ostentatious sign of wealth – all of which come from luxury labels. After several seasons marked by the predominance of logos, exaggerated volumes, a sexy trash aesthetic thawed from the 2000s, the quiet luxuryin original version, seems to be making a serious mark on the catwalks of Milan fashion week, which took place from September 19 to 25.
Fendi always plays a little with its “F” logo, present on the bags, but the general tone is sober. Designer Kim Jones was inspired by the enduring beauty of Rome, particularly the Colosseum, which is on the way to his office. For the parade, there was no amphitheater in sight, but monumental white statues of Fendi bags in front of which elegant ladies dressed for all occasions passed. Some only have a simple monochrome turtleneck knit dress (but subtly revealed on one shoulder), others play with colors, with anise pleated pants under an ocher trench coat and vermillion gloves.
The evening version comes in the form of a long sky blue dress, like a satin sheet casually placed on the body. The audience, made up of a bunch of stars in their fifties (Kate Moss, Demi Moore, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, etc.), embodies the ideal clients of this wardrobe of very good taste, straightness and precision that are sometimes a little cold.
For its part, Max Mara offers a more solar version of the quiet luxuryinspired by a theme that is not sumptuous: the daily life of the British Women’s Land Army, these 80,000 women from the countryside or the cities who, during the Second World War, are engaged in agricultural work to feed the nation while the men were in combat.
To give character to your pieces workweardesigner Ian Griffiths cut them from thick white cotton canvas, dyed them separately, then machine-washed them to shade their color and “give each room a unique character”. The result is very convincing, whether it is large collarless indigo trench coats, royal blue apron dresses, magenta playsuits, buttercup yellow shirts, pants with emerald patch pockets or ocher jackets.
Pleated skirts with a jacket next to the skin
At Ferragamo too, the source of inspiration moves away from opulence: Maximilian Davis was interested in arte povera, this avant-garde artistic movement that appeared in Italy in the 1960s, which favors use natural or reclaimed materials. The designer transposed the idea of ennobling elementary materials through creation by working with simple cotton and linen canvases which he embroidered on satin capes or treated so that they blend in with leather. “I wanted things to be lightweight, both in terms of fabric and construction, but also in silhouette. May this collection be pure and honest, but interesting to the touch”, explains the designer. In any case, it abounds with ideas, between togas with abstract patterns that wrap the body, costumes with sleeves slit up to the shoulders and dresses molded in rigid leather, illuminated by large silver clasps like jewels.
Failing to highlight their logo, brands versed in discreet luxury tend to promote the quality of their craftsmanship. This is exactly what Tod’s does, who, to celebrate “made in Italy”, invites its guests to the production workshops of the sets of La Scala in Milan: the models make their way between columns or plaster sculptures which will be used for the next production of the opera Don Carlosby Verdi, which will premiere in December.
For his latest collection at Tod’s, designer Walter Chiapponi took inspiration from the 1990s, the decade dominated by the minimalism of Prada and Helmut Lang, to design a tastefully perfect wardrobe in which women look at home. ‘easy. The suits are both formal but very flexible (because there is no interior canvas), the abundant pleated skirts are worn with a jacket next to the skin, a sienna shirt dress is enough to add style. Deceptively simple, skillfully cut, this wardrobe also has the merit of not offering a vision of the fantasized woman.
This is also the strength of Jil Sander, capable of creating a wardrobe that gives style without seeming to think about it. Designers Luke and Lucie Meier don’t bother with concepts, they play on contrasts, between feminine and masculine, everyday and glamorous, all supported by very advanced technical research and stunning materials. The show opens with an almond green dress whose fine knit top contrasts with the opulence of the gathered thick wool skirt; the model also wears a small thin hat and a necklace of large sparkling stones. A pale pink coat that’s a little too large, a vast black trench coat, a white poplin dress with openwork embroidery, an XXL shirt that hides your hands, a long ivory dress simply decorated with two metal circles at the shirt collar… Sometimes it’s enough a few things to look very classy.