What would Napoleon III have thought of the Covid-19 pandemic? Nobody asks the question, we have the answer: he would have regretted not being able to “Go to the waters”. The emperor, and even more empress Eugenie, loved the spas so much that he linked them to each other by roads crossing the central Pyrenees; first step in opening up these deep valleys.
Resuming these thermal routes at the time of the Covid-19 is to cross silent towns awaiting the return of spa visitors, hoped for in June. Frequented by crowned heads and Europe of letters until the First World War, the Pyrenean resorts are no longer in search of a past splendor. They survive, and the closure of their establishments is one more test for these mountain municipalities, whose low volumes of spa visitors do not attract private operators.
In 2019, a report from the Court of Auditors has hurt. He pointed out their lack of profitability; unaware that it is here less a question of money than of identity and the maintenance of the last activity of the territory.
Thermal route 1: from Bagnères-de-Bigorre (Hautes-Pyrénées) to Bagnères-de-Luchon (Haute-Garonne)
“A city of pleasure with opulent mansions, luxury carriages. Lots of parties, shows, people, noise. “ George Sand would not recognize Bagnères-de-Bigorre, which she visited in 1825. Recently, admits Marie-Hélène Blanque, the director of the thermal baths, “Better not to be neurasthenic when crossing Bagnères”.
The shaded alley of Coustous, on which high society spa guests strolled in the 19th centurye century, bored. At lunch break, four teenagers, their mopeds on the crutch, discuss in front of the media library. About what ? There are no longer even the matches of the Stade bagnérais, the Fédérale 1 rugby club and other local pride, to brighten up Sundays. To be reassured, we compare ourselves: “This is the lot of all spa towns at the moment, note Mme Blanque, but it is less impressive than in Lourdes. “
With the closure of Lourdes sanctuaries, thermal establishments and ski lifts, the Hautes-Pyrénées have abandoned their three factors of tourist attraction to health restrictions. The sector represents 35% of the gross domestic product (GDP) of the department, three times more than the national average. The difficulties of the aeronautical industry are added to it. It is a social disaster: expenditure for active solidarity income (RSA) will have increased by a quarter in two years, calculates the department.
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