“There are strong and assertive colors, but also slightly faded colors. I wanted very free things, to mix very soft tones with touches of bright yellow or bright green. It’s very modern to have the freedom to mix colors. “ For her spring-summer 2022 collection, Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of the men’s collections ofHermes, sets the tone. The electric colors will be in the spotlight next season, as if to better ward off the gloom of the past year. The collection plays the casual, with a frank elegance: parka with technical details, canvas pants with wide lapels, short zipped jackets, loose Bermuda shorts … The touches of color, sometimes bright, sometimes muffled, add a poetic dimension.
In 1017 Alyx 9SM, Matthew Williams indulge in chick yellow zipped coats and jackets, lilac sets, with his sexy side and his search for refinement (pearl organza, deconstructed jersey) in a video shot on the island of Stromboli. “As we designed the collection, this volcanic place where I went often during the last eight years, its fauna, its flora, seemed to me to agree with the play of textures and colors of the clothes”, indicates the creator.
At the Japanese Fumito Ganryu, we are first struck by the dark palette. “I wanted to work this season on the compatibility between comfortable and dressy, easy and demanding pieces, with the ambition to create a complete wardrobe in just a few silhouettes”, explains the designer from Tokyo. Capes-sweatshirts, hybrid pants and Converse sneakers laced on one side can be collapsed. But the t-shirts have a surprise: as soon as night falls, “Thanks to panels that absorb sunlight”, they phosphor in bright colors (yellow, purple, green).
“For next summer, I wanted to play with the identities associated with Dunhill, masculinity, Britishness… And the colors are part of this effort: I chose sharp tones that I contrasted with pastels “, announces Mark Weston, artistic director of Dunhill. He first shows on his mood board a vintage photo of a vest with neon yellow stripes worn by Prince Charles, then its reinterpretation in a contemporary anorak. Elsewhere, his collection collides with derbies with punk straps and a translucent nylon parka, a businessman’s wool blazer and an esthete’s orange hoodie, cut in a noble silk satin. A collaboration with photographer Ellen Carey brings out abstract tops and bags in which cobalt blue, turquoise, lemon yellow or ultraviolet explode.
For Isabel funny, which launched its men’s line only three years ago, the color is meant to reflect the general mood: “I wanted a joyful, dynamic and colorful collection. I like to make everyday collections, wearable every day. “ The Marant man dares the electric pink on large shirts or wide pants, mustard yellow on soft knit sweaters or even fir green on shirts with shortened sleeves and a sporty look. The prints play on the optical effect, in blue and white on shorts or pink and purple flowers on a silhouette in total look.
“I have never worn so many colors as this year! “, exclaims Jonathan Anderson, during an interview by interposed screens. For his brand’s collection JW Anderson, the Irish celebrated youth, eager for celebrations. Candy pink on knitted shorts and sweaters, electric blue on an overcoat or jumpsuit worn close to the body, neon green on shoes and tote bags… joy is expressed in colorama.
Davide Marello, former Gucci who launched Davi Paris in 2018, continues to develop its line of fuzzy embroidered or floral-print shirts and pants for boys with a tender heart. For next summer, “I wanted something alive”, he said. On the watercolor effect pieces, the hibiscus glow, the peonies are brilliant. “I worked with the language of flowers of the XVIIIe century, a vocabulary that offered each species a particular meaning, such as the desire for sensuality for the hibiscus. “ It’s up to everyone to decode.
But whoever spared the least on striking colors remains Walter Van Beirendonck, one of the masters of contemporary men’s fashion. The mischievous Belgian invites his models to go wild in a supercharged nightclub shouting political slogans (on resistance or the desire not to live anesthetized) and wearing fluorescent outfits: suit in Stabilo shades, tight-fitting outfits from very Power Rangers auto racer or yellow set with a penis drawn on the crotch. Like a color shoot to find vitamins.