Peru has established itself as a top culinary destination. The list of the 50 best restaurants in the world includes more Peruvian restaurants than ever before. The top spot is taken by the “Central” in Lima. The capital is a true foodie paradise for all income classes.
Evening service in the best restaurant in the world, the “Central” in Lima, the atmosphere is reminiscent of a Japanese spa: instead of white tablecloths, there is bare stone from Peru’s Andes mountain range. Modesty and closeness to nature as the new luxury. What is served here is both food and art.
Legend:
Dinner at the best restaurant in the world. This soup celebrates indigenous Peruvian ingredients such as potatoes, corn and seaweed.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
The menu: 14 courses, a culinary journey from the Peruvian coast to the Amazon, to the high mountains of the Andes. Costs the equivalent of 385 francs per person – that’s about an average monthly wage in Peru.
The “Central” and its sister restaurant “Kjolle” are run by the top chef couple Virgilio Martínez and Pia León. She was named the best chef in the world in 2021. “Peruvian cuisine is fusion. In Peru we have indigenous traditions, influences from Japan and China, colonial influences from Spain, from all over Latin America – simply everything that is fine,” says 37-year-old Pia León.
Legend:
37-year-old Pia León was named the best chef in the world in 2021.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
When asked to what extent her luxury cuisine is ethically justifiable in a country as unequal as Peru, León says: “Inequality in Peru is great and we want to do our part to change that. Our restaurants create jobs. We work with indigenous communities in the Cusco region, at an altitude of over 4,000 meters. They know best about the several thousand varieties of potatoes here in Peru. The indigenous people teach us their traditions and we offer work and visibility – it’s a give and take.”
Fishermen’s breakfast
In the past, tourists came to Peru only for Machu Picchu – today, thanks to the top restaurants, they also come to eat.
Legend:
The fishermen’s hearty breakfast: rolls with fried Pejerrey, lime juice, red onions and a little chili.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
At Lima’s ports, for example, you can find the typical morning meal of fishermen: sandwiches with fried pejerrey. Small silversides, with a few drops of lime juice, finely chopped red onions and a little chili – prepared by none other than Julius Caesar.
Legend:
Julio César together with his sister: The bread stand on the beach in Lima is a family business.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
“My name is Julio César,” explains the 42-year-old. His mother invented the popular Pejerrey rolls, he says. “And today everyone sells these rolls here,” says Julio, visibly proud. His family has had a small stand on the beach in Lima for 60 years.
Poor people’s food
In Lima’s Chorrillos district, Elisa, who is in her mid-forties, sells a popular potato dish at the market: the “causa peruana”.
Legend:
The «causa peruana»: A dish of mashed potatoes with vegetables, tuna salad or chicken ragout.
Teresa delgado / SRF
“It’s mashed potatoes that we layer together like a cake: it has vegetables, tuna salad or chicken ragout inside. A poor man’s meal,” explains Elisa.
Legend:
Market woman Elisa serves the popular “causa peruana” at her stand.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
In the 19th century, the court was sold in order to use the proceeds to finance the war of independence against Spain – the Peruvian cause, or that of Lima. Hence the name “causa peruana” or “causa limeña”.
The national dish
A few streets away, chef Marcos is preparing orders: ceviche – raw fish with lime juice, onions, corn and chili. And arroz con mariscos – rice with seafood.
Legend:
Ceviche and rice with seafood. Marcos serves it with a typical Peruvian snack: fried corn kernels with chili sauce.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
The seafood rice is a dish halfway between a creamy risotto and paella. It tastes like it came straight from the grill, slightly smoky, and is one of the most popular orders, says Marcos. He dreams of running a top-class restaurant one day.
Legend:
Chef Marcos at work. On his apron it says: “The great chef”.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
Legend:
Creativity allowed! This ceviche uses scallops, kiwi and dill instead of white fish, coriander and chili.
Teresa Delgado / SRF
Ceviche, a Peruvian dish with raw fish, can be prepared with different types of fish and seafood: from white fish to salmon, scallops or shrimp, everything is allowed.
Ingredients
- 200 grams of fish
- 1 small onion
- Salt, finely chopped coriander and yellow or red chili peppers (as required)
- 1-2 sweet potatoes
- 1 handful of field corn
Preparation for two people
Cut 200 grams of fish into small cubes and place in a bowl. Cover the fish pieces with very cold water and 1 tablespoon of salt and place in the fridge for a few minutes. Cut a small onion into thin strips, rub with 1/2 tablespoon of salt and rinse with cold water. Rinse the fish to remove the salt.
Place the fish cubes, half of the onion slices, finely chopped cilantro and chili peppers in a container and pour fresh lime juice over the ingredients. Sprinkle with a little salt. To minimize the acidity of the lemon, you can add a few ice cubes to the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for about 30 minutes until the fish begins to blanch. Season with cilantro, salt and chili as needed. Serve ceviche with side dishes such as field corn and boiled sweet potatoes.