If you book Istria, you get a bulging surprise bag: a lot of Croatia, a little Slovenia, a little bit of Italy – embraced by the beautiful Adriatic Sea. Plus: probably the loveliest picture book towns in Europe.
The Good Question
What the hell am I supposed to do there?
Let’s be very pragmatic: Do you think fine sandy beaches are overrated – especially when parts of it noticeably rub against your skin when you apply sunscreen? Istria’s beaches are mainly built of pebbles or solid rock slabs. Hard – but warm to LSF users. Important for predominantly culinary travelers: winegrowers, olive farmers and truffle hunters are the recognized stars of the peninsula.
Nothing to complain about
What are they up to with their goats?
There are more than 3,000 goats for around 200,000 inhabitants. The fact that they enjoy a special status can also be seen from the fact that they are even prominently represented in the coat of arms of the Istria County – in gold color, with impressive red horns.
In the medieval town of Svetvinčenat, Miss Goat and Mister Goat are elected every year – an amusing festival where unfortunately only four-legged friends are up for election…
Goats staring at people
© Steve PFX Production / Adobe Stock
multi-gang man
There should be a master chef?
Is correct. Tom Riederer has already brought Styrian cuisine to the fore. In his new home he wears a fashionable linen smock and conjures up an 18-course meal on the long table in his Casa Dante that will be remembered for a long time.
He and his wife Katarina also offer accommodation. With our own natural pool!
momjan.com
matters of opinion
What shouldn’t I miss?
Parenzana cycle path The 130-kilometer tour through Istrian Croatia, Italy and Slovenia shows what the region has to offer: the former narrow-gauge railway line takes you over eleven bridges, six viaducts and through nine tunnels.
parenzana.net
truffle dishes The forests around Motovun are famous for their truffle deposits: That’s why risotto and pasta are always offered here with a lavish truffle topping – at moderate prices. Many of the restaurants in Motovun have beautiful terrace views of the countryside.
Grožnjan In the 1960s, artists moved into the deserted village – and created one of the most magical corners of the region in its winding streets with attention to detail. Steaks under chestnuts? Hectic people come to rest in the Taverna Bastia.
made round
Is there a copy of the Colosseum there?
Well, well, well! The Pula Amphitheater was created almost at the same time as the Colosseum in Rome, is a bit smaller, but gigantic. And: It is idyllically situated on the water and today serves as a concert, dance and theater venue. No matter who or what is taking place there: go and enjoy the atmosphere!
In June, for example: Simply Red
At events there are a few more people – up to 5000
© kaycco / Adobe Stock
rock chiller
Are people tough?
At least Istrians live one tough beach culture: They lie around on rock slabs, completely chilled. Bask on pebbles about the size of a cat’s head. When they heat up, they jump – like here at Cape Kamenjak – headlong into the sea from a cliff that they previously had to climb with difficulty. St. Peter-Ording is…well…quite flat on the other hand.
Not just around the corner: Brseč Beach in Klančac Bay. Sparkling blue water, pebble and – well – sandy beach
Crystal clear water at Brseč Beach
© Marko Klarić/Wirestock / Adobe Stock
horseback riding
Are the Lipizzaners from here?
Exactly. Since 1580, Lipica has been home to the main stud farm of the Lipizzaner, one of the oldest cultural horse breeds of all, which is famous above all for its use at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. A visit to the country estate is not only a must for horse girls – what an experience when the herd gallops from the stable to the pastures! A spectacle that, like the training and performances of the classic riding school, takes place every day.
lipica.org
Lipizzaners are actually white, aren’t they? Only when they are a few years old
©PR
connoisseur
Tedi Chiavalon
The award-winning olive farmer especially loves them enjoyment his countrymen. His tip: “In the Locanda Blu in Rovinj you are always served exciting culinary creations. Important: marvel at the sunset in front of the restaurant beforehand. Regional wine and fish – that’s all you really need fortunately.”
blu.hr
favorite place
The town of Bale
An insider tip that many visitors are not yet aware of. You clatter uphill and downhill over rough cobblestones, surrounded by picturesque vineyards and olive groves. Many buildings in the medieval city are just barren stone skeletons, in others artists have set up studios or work in the garden. It is estimated that Bale delivers three photo motifs over a distance of 25 meters – a great place.
You saw Kamene priče in Bale’s historic center at the beginning of this article, so we recommend it again here: a rustic eatery as beautiful as a stylish junk shop – with rustic cuisine and live jazz.
kameprice.com
Bale: So it’s almost like it used to be here
© st1909 / Adobe Stock
Mirror Mirror
Which place is the most beautiful?
The old town of Rovinj is a labyrinth in which one likes to get lost. And the view of the sea from the baroque church of St. Euphemia is great. But if you look at Rovinj from a distance (officially entered as “Sunset Point” on Google Maps), you will think you are hallucinating – this picture looks so surreal and postcard-perfect.
Many restaurants “stick” to the rocks on the edge of the promenade – the nicest ones are not exactly cheap, but the location, the location …
Nothing can go wrong with this motif: Old town and harbor in Rovinj
© Comofoto / Adobe Stock
Down
Where do you get stuck?
Since 1986 they belong Škocjan Caves to the UNESCO World Natural Heritage. Not only the huge halls and rock formations and the rushing Reka River are impressive, but also the occurrence of alpine and sub-Mediterranean plants that grow relatively close together.
Guided tour: 1.5 hours, information: park-skocjanske-jame.si
You have to cross this bridge… Die Škocjan Caves
©PR
Info
Where is that?
The Istrian peninsula lies in the Adriatic Sea, belongs mostly to Croatia, its northern areas to Slovenia and Italy – and is almost as big as Mallorca.
getting there
It takes six to seven hours by car from Munich to Istria. It takes about 1.5 hours to fly from Frankfurt/Main to Pula by plane.
accommodations
Hotel Lone Futuristic architect-designed new building in a park on the outskirts of Rovinj – modern, comfortable furnishings, stylish wellness and gastro areas and with a great beach club. Double room from 105 euros.
maistra.com
Rivalmare Boutique Hotel This quite small boutique hotel, mostly decorated in crisp white, is located directly on the beach promenade of Novigrad. The rooms feel like a clean lab – and we know some people who appreciate just that. Double room from 90 euros.
rivalmare.hr
Amphitheater Hotel The name gives it away: this place to stay is very close to the Pula Arena – just a two-minute walk away. A down-to-earth house with fairly simply furnished rooms. Double room from 120 euros.
hotelamfiteatar.com