A man falls backwards out of a triangle that a woman tumbles into. They are drawn in a clear line on coasters with jagged edges stacked at the tip of the counter in Capitale, a new Belleville address. In this place of refuge thought by Margot Lecarpentier as the drop-off point for the forgotten, you can eat and drink all day.
The entrepreneur had set up Combat by feminist activism in 2017, “So that women can drink safely”, she said then, and, surprise, she met a whole population that she did not expect: Muslims, sober people, sick people who want to drink good but without alcohol.
The idea of Capitale was born, it will serve everything that seems essential to it, mainly foods that make you feel comfortable. In fact, its clientele is as varied as the decor, the liquid menu as intense as the solid menu. Difficult to choose between coffee-chamomile and matcha melon juice as much as between the non-alcoholic cocktail made from 7Up, pistachio and milk and a classic screwdriver.
A simple oolong tea will therefore inaugurate this Sunday breakfast. He is from Taiwan. Soft, it leaves on the tongue the impression of having drunk the most subtle of sweetened condensed milks. A characteristic that resonates with the bite of the regressive croissandwich at all levels: the sweet mustard, the salad that crunches, the tastes of ham and cheese that homogenize without fuss. It is a perfect remedy after a drunken night.
“The well-peppered pastrami is coated with a dill cream and is placed on a cornbread that makes you think of a naughty polenta. “
Also reconstituting the fried egg. Its edges are crisp-toasted. Once the yolk is pierced, it drips into a mat of ricotta seasoned with chive oil. On a slice of toast and buttered bread, the creaminess of the mixture is so voluptuous that it coats the acidity of the sourdough bread with smoothness. Further on, the well-peppered pastrami is coated with a dill cream and is placed on a cornbread that makes you think of a naughty polenta. Perfection is not far off. Those who had come to recover regain color, the others await the continuation by stamping their feet.
The soundtrack is dancing, the fennel salad a little less. The peaches on it are bland, the dukkah seeds are not roasted enough and this shortcoming is poorly compensated for by an overflow of paprika. There had to be a downside. Unfortunately, the fig labneh also rings false with its rock-hard dried date pieces and a little too salty yogurt.
The waffle will save the deal. Cooked minute in salted butter, it is so decadent that it could be eaten plain but is well accompanied by a crème fraîche and divine plum jam. The tumble is done. Men and women are together, satisfied and ready to face another day of chaos.
The address Capitale, 10, rue Pradier, Paris 19e. Without reservation. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
The essential Fried egg on a bed of ricotta, chive oil.
The detail that is not a detail The walls, covered with multiple tiles, scratched plaster and remains of plaster, demonstrate that beauty is born of difference.
The bill Around 20 €.
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