Reversible, transformed, layered … fashion is recycled

Exactly a year ago was held the last week of prepandemic Parisian fashion, barely disturbed by the cataclysm that was already looming. Since then, filmed presentations have replaced physical catwalks – with which most designers want to reconnect as quickly as possible. If the health crisis has hit the fashion weeks of New York, London and Milan violently, it is clear that that of Paris is resistant enough to the shock: the calendar for autumn-winter 2021-2022, spread from 1er as of March 10, a few big names who have chosen to follow their own pace (like Saint Laurent or Celine) are certainly missing, but no less than 93 brands have all the same planned to unveil their new collection.

Marine Serre.

Clothing transformed, transformable, transposable: a certain idea of ​​versatility surfaced during the first days. Example with Marine Serre, the expert designer of the sartorial resurrection, who posted a minisite on March 2. What to see there? Short “documentaries” reaffirming the fundamentals of the house, its manufacturing processes, its values, in addition to showing the new collection, called “Core” (translatable as “heart” or “core”).

“Our main goal for the past three years has been to bring upcycling, in other words the transformation of clothes already used, into the street, explains the designer. We wanted to make this process better understood, which did not seem to have its place in luxury a few years ago, but has taken on its full meaning lately, especially since the pandemic has accelerated ecological awareness. ” Now, at Marine Serre, 50% of the parts are upcycled, 50% are “new”, but made from recycled or biodegradable fibers. The new collection should not disappoint fans of the brand: fluid patchwork dresses of silk scarves, skirts made from fringed rugs and tops printed with the Moon logo are there.

Victoria / Tomas.

At Victoria / Tomas too, clothes have two lives: since last season, the duo only offers reversible pieces 100% made in France, believing that duplication is one of the possible solutions against the overproduction of clothes. Called “Cosyristic”, a portmanteau combining “cozy” and “futuristic”, the new collection combines flexible suits, dresses-plaids and ultramodern belted coats, which all hide a back of a color, a material, or even a different look.

Beautiful People.

“People want less waste and are willing to pay more if the garment can be worn in more than one way”, abounds, from Tokyo, Hidenori Kumakiri, the creator of the Beautiful People label. He also continues his research on transformable parts. “This season, I wanted to change the clothes. Shirts and coats will take on other shapes if you turn them 90, 180 or 270 ° “, he explains, showing us his mathematical diagrams. Its technical prowess also allows a dress inspired by a Balenciaga couture model of the 1950s to slip on one side or the other, positioning frills, it is according to the shoulders or the calves.

Patou.

“When I see a woman through the window wearing a feather coat, I want to hug her! “, exclaims Guillaume Henry from his office on the Ile de la Cité in Paris. In this covid winter, the designer of Patou is eager for fantasy, as evidenced by this new collection made of fairly classic pieces (a functional black dress, an all-terrain suit, silk blouses …) that he has associated in a way. very baroque, by superimposing the pieces on top of each other.

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“We have already sold this collection to buyers in January, presenting it on a much more daily basis, and it has worked very well, explains Guillaume Henry. On our e-commerce, we always offer several ways to associate a piece to highlight its versatility. For fashion week, I rather wanted to compose a flower garden! ” And when a yellow floral minidress is worn with a turquoise puffy faille blouse, a removable lace collar and flared pants, the silhouette indeed takes on a whole new dimension: it looks like a theater costume.

Dries Van Noten.

And it is moreover in stage costumes that Dries Van Noten transposes his creations of the season, thus giving them an unexpected existence. The Antwerp designer gives us a millimeter film in which models and dance professionals meet, such as the choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui or Marie-Agnès Gillot and Letizia Galloni, from the Paris Opera. “With this collection, I wanted to talk about movement and emotion, says the creator. For the movement, I was inspired by the creations of the choreographer Pina Bausch. And for the emotion, I plunged back into the universe of Pedro Almodovar, the great master of the genre, the filmmaker of love and passion. sometimes exaggerated. “

This explains the coats worn bare-legged with stiletto heels, the white shirts crossed with blood red and the oversized costumes telling something of the fluidity of genres, especially animated by a choreography blurring the boundaries of the feminine and the masculine. A great idea, at a time when going to cinemas and ballet theaters is still prohibited.

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