Saint Laurent parades in Venice

By Maud Gabrielson

Posted today at 12:11

How will we live together? “,” How will we live together? “. This is the theme of the Architecture Biennale 2021, which is currently being held in Venice (Italy), until November 22. This is the setting chosen by Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director of the Maison Saint Laurent, to present his men’s spring-summer 2022 fashion show on Wednesday, July 14.

From Saint Mark’s Square, a few minutes by vaporetto are enough to reach the isola della Certosa, a strip of green land in the lagoon housing an abandoned cloister, on which Anthony Vaccarello invited the American multimedia artist Doug Aitken to install a monumental work serving as a backdrop for the parade .

Saint Laurent.

Baptized Green Lens, this structure composed of kaleidoscope effect mirrors, reflecting the water, the sky and the surrounding nature, conceals an abundant botanical garden. It is open to the public until July 30. This collaboration is part of a project to support the city of Venice, Saint Laurent is indeed committed to replanting the trees and plants of the Green Lens on the island, while participating in its reforestation.

A photogenic setting as possible, ideal for the new generation of influencers, smartphone in hand, guests for the occasion. Between Charlotte Gainsbourg, the model Anja Rubik, the actor Dylan Robert or the creator Rick Owens, indeed stands out a group of young boys with a rock and singular allure who, intelligence taken, turn out to be stars of the social network TikTok, peaking at several million subscribers. These new idols of young people even have their groupies, eagerly awaiting them at the exit of their hotel.

A dark and Victorian tale

On the podium, the Saint Laurent men’s wardrobe for next summer seems fashioned for them. ” It’s a dark tale about a Victorian romance », Explains Anthony Vaccarello in his note of intent about his collection. Airy, romantic but resolutely rock, the latter highlights large vaporous blouses accompanying pants worn close to the body, fitted suits in black brocade, large capes tied around the neck and worn next to the skin, white pirate blouses. paired with black leather pants or even short jackets paired with printed pants.

Saint Laurent.

Androgynous, the allure blurs the masculine and feminine codes with precision. ” In the collection, there are references to the black and white evening suits imagined by Yves Saint Laurent in the early 1980s, to the pleated pants from the 1983 collection or to the short jackets and boleros that can be found in his work from the late 1960s to the 1980s », Details Vaccarello. The pointy ankle boots, reminiscent of the Winklepicker popular with British rockers, have buckles, open on the sides or even laced along the ankle. The predominantly black color palette suggests touches of carmine red, deep purple or even sea green.

What matters to me is to be able to define my vision, while respecting the brand, its history and its archives. », Explains Anthony Vaccarello. A sharp vision, imagined with the current codes in force, the virality of social networks in mind. Smart.

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Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent.
L'isola della Certosa, in Venice.