Skin expert explains: Acid as a skin care miracle?

Treat your skin and it will glow! – One moment please: Not only exfoliate the skin with acids, but also care for it? Yes, that is exactly what is meant. And what sounds strange at first shows great results in practice. “When used in the right amount, acids help to promote cell regeneration, alleviate or prevent skin problems and bring active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin,” explains Susanne Martens. The medical beautician has specialized in acid treatments and knows what it involves the use of fruit, salicylic, polylactic acid etc. at home or in the practice. It answers the ten most important questions for us.

1. Why are acids so popular right now?

Because they have proven very useful in skin care. And their reputation spreads quickly on social networks. And rightly so: their effect in cleansers, glow toners, serums etc. or in professional treatments helps the skin to be more healthy, better quality and have a fresh glow. It’s good to know a few things in advance.

2. Which acids are good to use at home?

Fruit acid peels with AHA complex often work with small and efficient glycolic acid molecules. Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) is used in peels that have a very gentle effect, similar to mandelic acid. Sebum-reducing salicylic acid (BHA) helps against impurities. Retinoic acid and its derivatives are suitable for wellaging and finer pores Retinol and retinal. And anti-inflammatory azelaic acid from 15 percent can even improve the condition of the skin in rosacea.

3. How do you know which acid your skin needs?

“To find out which one is right, you should know your own skin type and condition,” says Susanne Martens and recommends asking a beautician or dermatologist for advice. But apps and online tests also provide an initial indication. “In the next step “You have to be clear about what you want to achieve and slowly integrate the right acid into your existing routine.”

4. Which concentrations are correct?

If the skin is not yet used to acid, it should be the lightest concentration. Depending on the condition of your skin, acid can have very different effects. The beautician advises: “Start with an acid cleanser and leave it on the skin for a minute.” The skin reaction and the feeling afterwards show how the skin copes with acid. “Then start with the lowest concentration. And slowly increase it from once to twice a week.” The skin gradually tolerates the acid better and better.

5. Why is UV protection important for acid treatments?

“The acid treatments and products make the protective stratum corneum thinner and the skin overall a little more sensitive,” explains the beautician. “That’s why a high UV filter is also important in everyday life.” On the one hand, to prevent sunburn and light damage, on the other hand, because the cells can produce more melanin pigments, so that more and new spots appear.

6. What are the best professional acid treatments?

For our expert, this is clear: “For glow and freshness: 40 percent mandelic acid – this is even possible with rosacea. Against wrinkles and spots: 25 percent trichloroacetic acid (TCA), after three days of glow, the complexion flakes for four days and then shines renewed and smoothed. And for acne scars: 40 percent trichloroacetic acid. I think that’s even better than laser treatment: if the resulting crusts come off after about a week, the scars are reduced.”

7. Does acid help against pigment spots?

Yes! Superficial melanin accumulations can be reduced with fruit, tranexam or kojic acid. They promote the exfoliation of old discolored cells and regulate pigment formation. “However, you cannot achieve major hyperpigmentation such as melasma, which is in the second layer of skin. Retinoic acid, i.e. products with retinol or retinal, have been proven to work here.”

8. Does acid damage the skin barrier?

Only if you exaggerate. Acidic skin is susceptible to germs. Moisture is lost and it becomes calloused. “If it reddens, flakes, there are more pimples or hives or the subsequent care burns, it was too much,” says Susanne Martens. Since the effect is delayed, products should not be used every day, but the intervals should be gradually shortened In acute cases, barrier-strengthening active ingredients such as omega-3 fatty acids, panthenol, aloe vera and ceramides help.

9. Which acids smooth wrinkles?

“Fruit acids reduce superficial dryness wrinkles. If they are deeper, the retinoic acid converted from retinol works. It also promotes the formation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,” says the expert. “Incidentally, amino acids also help because they regenerate strongly.” About the visual appearance To soften quickly, cushioning hyaluronic acid is great. Her tip: “Moisten the skin with thermal water beforehand. Because hyaluronic acid does not provide moisture, but rather binds it.”

10. Are there any no-gos when using it?

“Acid treatments are not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding,” says the expert. Acids are also taboo on inflamed skin. Always take a week off after stronger peels. And combine acids? “It’s possible, but you should leave time in between! Wait two hours after the glow toner and then apply the retinol.”

Bridget