Successes and controversies in the Michelin guide, bible of gastronomy


The Michelin gastronomic guide, photographed on January 21, 2020 in Paris (AFP/Archives/JOEL SAGET)

The famous Michelin gastronomic guide, whose 2022 edition comes out on Tuesday, has been successful for more than a century, but has also sparked recurring controversy.

– The beginnings –

In 1900, less than 3,000 cars were driving in France. The brothers André and Édouard Michelin, confident in the rise of the automobile, provide motorists with a document facilitating their travels with the address of mechanics and hotels.

The first edition is printed in 35,000 copies. “This work appears with the century, it will last as long as it does”, says the prefacer, visionary.

In 1904, the first guide outside the borders came out, in Belgium. From 1910, the Germany and Spain/Portugal guides appeared. Many more will follow.

The guide is free until 1920.

In 2021, the first guide to discovering France on board regional trains will be released. A small revolution for the red guide historically designed for motorists.

– The appearance of the stars –

The complete star hierarchy, applied to the whole of France, dates from 1933: a table “worth the trip” for three stars, “worth the detour” for two stars, is “a very good table” for one star.

In 1997, the “Gourmet Bib” pictograms appear, which indicate a very good quality/price ratio, or “Les piécettes” which designate restaurants with complete and economical menus. In 2000, Michelin introduced a few lines of text on the establishment.

In a century, the French edition has sold some 30 million copies. Other guides, notably Anglo-Saxon, are now in tough competition with it.

– Critics and controversies –

The guide was notably criticized by two books in 2004, revealing the pitiless world of cooking or underlining the lack of transparency of the ratings: “The inspector se puts himself at the table”, by Pascal Rémy, and “Food Business: the hidden face of French gastronomy”, by Olivier Morteau. Pascal Rémy, Michelin inspector, is fired for serious misconduct and breach of confidentiality clause.

In a century, the French edition of the Michelin guide has sold some 30 million copies

In a century, the French edition of the Michelin guide has sold some 30 million copies (AFP / Archives / JOEL SAGET)

At the origin of recurring debates, the granting of laurels creates an ever increasing pressure on the lucky recipient, which is sometimes badly experienced.

Several three-starred chefs wanted to solve the problem in one way or another (accelerated retirement, closure of the restaurant, request for the guide to be released…): Joël Robuchon in 1996, Alain Senderens in 2005, Antoine Westermann in 2006 , Olivier Roellinger in 2008, Sébastien Bras in 2017.

More dramatic, the suicide of the three-starred chef Bernard Loiseau in 2003. In question, among other reasons, the pressure exerted by food critics.

Another chef, Benoît Violier, also committed suicide in 2016, 24 hours before the release of the Michelin which nevertheless maintained his “three stars”.

At the end of 2019, chef Marc Veyrat, who had taken legal action to find out why the Guide had deprived one of his restaurants of its third star, was dismissed.

Of approximately 20,000 restaurants worldwide listed in the guide, only around 100 have obtained the supreme distinction of “three stars”.

In 2021, the guide was once again criticized for maintaining its selection in France despite the restaurant closures imposed by the Covid. Its competitors, them, had chosen to cancel their prize list.

– The international red guide –

In 2005, Michelin left Europe for the first time with the publication of the New York guide, followed in 2007 by San Francisco, then Las Vegas and Los Angeles.

The first guide in Asia concerns Tokyo in 2008, then Michelin launches a Hong Kong and Macao edition for China. Shanghai, Singapore, Taiwan, Seoul and Bangkok now all have their guide.

Renowned Tokyo sushi restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro, which was rated three stars, was delisted in 2019 for refusing reservations from the general public.

The restaurants from around the world selected in the guide have been identifiable on the Tripadvisor site for two years and can be reserved on TheFork, the world leader in online restaurant reservations.

© 2022 AFP

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