The oyster was not at the party for New Year’s Eve 2023. “ The media effect of the announcement of the sales ban in the Arcachon basin [Gironde], then in two areas in Normandy was disastrous. During the last purchasing acts of consumers on December 30 and 31, there were violent stoppages in stores”notes Philippe Le Gal, a Breton oyster farmer based in Morbihan and president of the National Shellfish Farming Committee.
Orders canceled by large retailers, worried customers in the markets or in fishmongers: bivalves sold less well than expected on the last two days of 2023. Knowing that nearly 60% of annual volumes are marketed between the 15th and December 31, with a split of two-thirds for Christmas and one-third for New Year.
“ However, of the 375 oyster farming zones defined in France, only ten were closed in the Arcachon basin and two in Calvados. This represents around 2,000 tonnes of oysters, or 2% of French production”puts Mr. Le Gal into perspective.
If the wave of consumer distrust has affected the entire sector, the potion is obviously more bitter for the oyster farmers of the Arcachon basin. The latter spent their New Year’s Eve putting the oysters intended for sale back into the water, while waiting for the ban to be lifted. It is expected twenty-eight days after the closure decision taken by the prefecture on Wednesday December 27 following the detection, in shellfish, of norovirus, considered responsible for cases of gastroenteritis. The tasting cabins have closed their doors and the websites are no longer taking orders.
During a meeting at the prefecture on Friday January 5, representatives of the nearly 300 oyster farming companies in Arcachon requested compensation. They estimate the lost turnover at 7 million euros, including 5 million in shortfall in terms of gross margin. They say they are victims of undersized sanitation networks.
The pressure was high
Excess rain in November and December 2023 would have caused overflows and dirty water would have flowed into the basin, contaminating the oysters. The prefect assured that the State would demonstrate fiscal benevolence and grant partial unemployment measures. In the medium term, the idea is to obtain authorization from the European Commission to create a compensation scheme.
After this New Year’s blow, the time has come to take stock. “Two thousand and twenty-three was a mixed year”, estimates Laurent Chiron, oyster farmer and president of the Marennes-Oléron oyster quality group. This area, very popular with oyster lovers, was also shaken in November and December by storms and heavy rains. The pressure was high. “We were under increased surveillance in eight areas, but it was lifted on Friday January 5, because the analyzes were good”underlines Mr. Chiron.
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