It is one of the symbols of France. Like the Eiffel Tower or the baguette, haute couture spreads French know-how around the world. And yet, we do not always know very well what this term corresponds to, which the marketing departments of fashion brands use wrongly and through, sometimes to designate a perfume or a bag. Small point to see clearly.
“The term “haute couture” is often used to refer to fashion collections in general. However, it is a very specific name, not to be confused with ready-to-wear », recalls Pascal Morand, executive president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. Ready-to-wear, unlike haute couture, which only exists in France, offers fashion in standardized sizes and produced in greater or lesser quantities.
Haute couture regulations were put in place in 1945 by the Ministry of Industry. In fact, very specific criteria must be met to claim the label – legally protected – haute couture. Among other things, that of having two workshops – one for tailored pieces, another for so-called “fuzzy” pieces -, it is also necessary to manufacture original models, made to measure and by hand, parade twice a year in Paris or still have a minimum of twelve employees in its ranks.
Today, sixteen brands and designers can claim this label, including Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli and Jean Paul Gaultier. Eight brands are “corresponding members”, understand that they have an activity that is similar to haute couture, but are not based in Paris. We find among them the Italians Giorgio Armani, Valentino and Fendi, or the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf.
The Schiaparelli fashion show panicked the Web
Finally, each season the Federation invites a few emerging designers (or not), to join the calendar for a season (or more), to present their collection. This is the case this season with the American Thom Browne, the Moroccan Sara Chraibi or the young brand from Saudi Arabia and based in Paris, Ashi. If the latter do not benefit from the appellation haute couture, they nevertheless integrate the official calendar.
Born in Paris in the workshops of couturiers from the end of the 19th centurye century, with Charles Frederick Worth, Jeanne Paquin or Paul Poiret as figureheads, how does haute couture adapt to current economic and societal challenges? “We are experiencing a digital revolution, coupled with an awareness of ecological issues. Haute couture responds to this, it is a look at the importance of “doing”, it puts know-how at the center of the subject and gives concreteness to the notion of touch. In addition, these clothes are unique and tailor-made, this is opposed to the overflow of fashion and production of clothes”explains Pascal Morand.
However, moments of haute couture can also panic the Web, like the Schiaparelli fashion show in January 2023, which saw its resin lion and wolf heads larger than life widely commented on social networks, the public seeing it the apology of the hunt.
If the number of high fashion customers in the world is difficult to know, “This obviously has an economic existence! », emphasizes Pascal Morand. A handful of wealthy people around the world place orders with fashion houses to meet their desires and needs, and thus dress their way of life made of galas and celebrations of all kinds. And each time make the French know-how shine a little more.