ATBefore starting this column, I did not know that Merlot had such a pretty name. I didn’t have the ref, I would have said with twenty years younger. Merlot, or merlau, as it was sometimes written in the 18thand century, means “little blackbird” in Gascon patois. From there, opinions differ. Is it in reference to its color, close to the plumage of blackbirds? Or because blackbirds particularly appreciate grapes of this variety? In any case, it is nicknamed, although too rarely, “the little blackbird”. And if you know the song of the blackbird, how melodious it is, never tiresome, so easy to recognize, there is reason to think that Merlot is one of the most charming grape varieties.
It is true, because already, to the eye, it is beautiful. Spherical berries, of medium size, in conical clusters, sometimes winged, dark green leaves, with well cut lobes, it is a vine of postcard. But above all, he is a superstar. Unavoidable. The Jean Dujardin of the vineyard. The most planted grape variety in France, with 112,000 hectares in 2015 (latest statement from the International Organization of Vine and Wine), almost ten times more than in the 1950s, it is the most common grape in Bordeaux, where it covers almost half of the vineyard. In short, THE reference. It is found in the South-West, Languedoc, in red as in rosé.
And that’s not all. It is also a hit internationally, since it is the second most exploited black wine grape (for wine) in the world, behind Cabernet Sauvignon, its Bordeaux adventure companion. Still in 2015, it represented an area of 266,000 hectares, with a presence in 37 countries. In California ? Of course, just like in the US states of Washington, New York and Virginia. In Australia ? Obviously. In Chile, Argentina, Canada? Yes Yes Yes. But also in South Africa, Israel, northern Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Croatia, Belgium, Bulgaria, Slovenia, Hungary, Czech Republic.
The beginner’s ideal
Why such assent? Because Merlot is rather easy to grow, fertile and vigorous, maturing well. Better still, it allows the production of dense wines with a dark color, round in the mouth, rich in alcohol and pleasant tannins, with aromas of red and black fruits, prunes, chocolate, liquorice, jam. In countries that favor choice by grape variety, a glass of Merlot is ideal for beginners, easy to drink young, more indulgent than Pinot Noir, more supple than Cabernet Sauvignon. It is the red for simple occasions, a work outing, a dinner aperitif, a pizza, the not prudish companion, impossible to upset, a kind of Belmondo of the vine.
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