Introduced in Spain by the Arabs, in Italy via Sicily from 1450, the artichoke arrived in France in the 15th or 16th century. Its cultivation developed in Roussillon around 1830 and, with the arrival of the Perpignan-Narbonne train in 1858, it was exported to England and Germany.
Loamy-sandy soils, deep and draining, mild and sunny weather, the Roussillon plain, around Perpignan, a vast amphitheater facing the sea, offers the ideal conditions for this flower derived from the wild Mediterranean cardoon, flourishes. Around fifty towns have been growing artichokes there since the 16th century: a true tradition.
A delicate picking
With 7,000 tonnes harvested per year, Roussillon is the second largest producer of artichokes after Brittany. Its culture is set to pick it just before its flower blooms. From May to August, the plants are placed in rows of mounds of earth (so that the water drains). They grow in autumn; stop growing in winter; then in February, the leaves unfold. In March, it’s harvest time. Handmade, it lasts two months.
Tasty varieties
The Roussillon artichoke has tight leaves, an indication of freshness and longevity. Macau, Salambo, Calico and Pop Vert have light green or purple flower heads (bottom and leaves) 9 to 13 cm in diameter. The Petit Violet variety, cones of 3.5 to 6 cm, is sold in bouquets.
The artichoke celebrates on May 1st
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer lives in artichoke time, on May 1st, with a farmers’ market from the canton of Salanque and cooking workshops. The seafront restaurateurs “starify” the artichoke in their menu.
The Roussillon artichoke is ideal with fish
“The leaves of Macau and Petit violet from producer Christophe Cuadrat are firm and fleshy, their heart tender and their taste delicious..” His advice: turn the artichoke (remove leaves and hay), Greek-style poach the base cut in two, in a lemon broth with white wine. Cook it in strips in olive oil sprinkled with fleur de sel. Ideal with fish. Or puree them with duck foie gras.
Franck Séguret, Chef at Clos des Lys, a gourmet restaurant in Perpignan closeddeslys.com