Inflation has had a real impact on our plates. With the consequence, at lunch, the return of the bowl prepared at home, as shown by a survey published in January by the research firm Strateg’eat: 48% of respondents bring their frichti at least once a week to their place of work (+ 17% between 2021 and 2023). And when the French decide to pay for their meal, their choice is above all fast food. Their favorite foods? In order: pizzas, burgers and kebabs. But, just behind, in fourth position, sandwiches are making a comeback.
“Today, bakeries have become the favorite places for snackingreveals Nicolas Nouchi, founder of Strateg’eat. They are seen as sort of guardians of authenticity and quality. We are prepared to pay up to 7 euros on average for a high-end product that is different from the ordinary. »
The good old snack is therefore adorned with the finest finery to satisfy a public that is both thrifty and greedy. Some houses still play the classicism card, but with formality. The French Bastards, a mini bakery chain (six locations in Paris, one in Lille), offers extravagant creations, including an extraordinary “tradition ham” (7.90 euros). This sandwich, cut from half a sourdough baguette, is dripping with ham chiffonade (organic, nitrite-free).
“I created it with my grandfather in mindsays one of the founders of The French Bastards, Emmanuel Gunther. I always felt a little peckish after dinner, around 10 p.m., and he discreetly made me a snack. I wanted to resurrect this moment with a good and very hearty sandwich. I am convinced that traditional recipes have a bright future ahead of them if we are not satisfied with low-end products and mechanical execution. »
But buttered ham no longer reigns supreme on the counters of bistros and bakeries. “This emblematic product remains the most popular, but not as much as beforeobserves Mr. Nouchi. Both for religious reasons – pork is prohibited by certain religions – and cultural reasons – many customers reduce or eliminate meat. Above all, the consumer is more curious; he wants new recipes. »
Pastry chef Christophe Michalak has chosen not to work with meat in his stores in Paris and Neuilly-sur-Seine (Hauts-de-Seine). “A ham and butter can be delicious if you use very good ham and very good butter spread on the spot, without letting the sandwich sit for hours behind a refrigerated display casehe concedes. But I do what suits me and, today, I no longer eat meat. So I did without ham, bacon, sausage… while trying to preserve the taste. »
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