Moayad al-Shafie and thousands of Palestinians returned to northern Gaza after a fragile ceasefire allowed access following intense negotiations. Many faced heartbreak as they discovered widespread destruction of their homes. The humanitarian situation remains dire, with families living in tents amidst ruins. Despite the temporary pause in conflict, fears of renewed violence linger. The challenge of rebuilding lives and infrastructure looms large, as returnees grapple with loss and uncertainty in a devastated landscape.
Return to Northern Gaza: A Journey of Hope and Heartbreak
Moayad al-Shafie was determined to be among the first to return home. On Sunday morning, the Palestinian with vivid red hair arrived at the checkpoint at the Netzarim Corridor, an area under the control of the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) that splits the Gaza Strip in two. He joined thousands of fellow Palestinians, all waiting for the Israelis to withdraw and allow access to the northern regions, as per the agreement made between Israel and Hamas. However, the anticipated moment did not unfold as expected.
On Saturday, unexpected complications arose. While Hamas had released four female hostages as part of the agreement, Arbel Yehud was notably absent from the group. Israel accused Hamas of breaching their commitment, leading to a temporary halt in the return of displaced individuals to the north. It seemed that the fragile ceasefire could collapse once again after just a week. However, late Sunday evening brought a breakthrough after intense negotiations: Hamas pledged to release Arbel Yehud later that week, prompting Israel to agree to open the route to northern Gaza.
Homecoming Amidst Destruction
By Monday morning at 7 AM, the IDF had withdrawn, and shortly after, tens of thousands of Palestinians surged along the coastal road heading north. This marked the first opportunity in 16 months for many to return to the area from which around one million had fled during the conflict.
Moayad al-Shafie was en route to his hometown of Beit Lahiya, located in the far north of Gaza. Although he was unreachable on Monday due to poor reception, he had previously shared his story with local reporters. The 35-year-old accountant had lived in Beit Lahiya with his family until last autumn when a new Israeli offensive forced them to evacuate. After fleeing to Gaza with his wife and two daughters, he was arrested at an IDF checkpoint, suspected of being affiliated with Hamas. A photo captured him with blindfolded eyes and bound hands, and he spent 40 days in detention before being released in late December. Now free, he found himself separated from his family, who remained in the north.
“I miss my wife and my daughters so much,” Moayad expressed. “I haven’t seen them for two and a half months.” The news of the ceasefire filled him with immense joy, yet he felt conflicted. His wife had informed him that their home was destroyed. “I know I will only find rubble. But we will try to rebuild everything,” he reassured.
The sense of loss was not unique to al-Shafie. Most returnees likely share similar sentiments, as the devastation in northern Gaza is particularly severe. The Israeli ground offensive began following the Hamas massacre on October 7, 2023, and the region remained a battleground for months, with Hamas frequently regrouping. According to United Nations reports, around 69 percent of buildings across Gaza are either destroyed or damaged, with some areas in the north seeing destruction rates as high as 80 percent.
Khatam al-Hassumi, a 30-year-old mother of four from Beit Lahiya, chose not to flee southwards, where a so-called “humanitarian zone” promised more safety. Despite giving birth to her youngest son Ibrahim during the war, she decided to endure the conflict in Gaza. Upon hearing of the ceasefire, she returned to find her home uninhabitable. She and her children are now living in a tent set up amidst the ruins, as financial constraints hinder any rebuilding efforts.
“Civil protection teams are still recovering decomposing bodies from the rubble,” Khatam reported, illustrating the grim humanitarian situation. Even with increased aid deliveries, market prices remain astronomical. “At least it’s better than a year ago when we had to eat leaves and animal feed and drink dirty water,” she recalled, noting that during the ceasefire, 600 aid trucks are expected to enter Gaza daily, with half heading to the north.
Despite the temporary ceasefire, Khatam remains cautious. “My biggest fear is that the war will start again,” she admitted. The initial phase of the ceasefire lasts only six weeks, and uncertainty looms over whether a subsequent agreement can be reached. Israel has made it clear that military action will resume if Hamas retains its hold on power. “I hope that Hamas relinquishes its power so that peace can prevail and this war can end,” she added.
This sentiment is echoed by many, including Asmaa Zuhair, a 37-year-old nurse who recently returned to Beit Lahiya. “It’s time for Hamas to step aside. Everyone should have a say in how Gaza is governed,” she stated, as she assists in rebuilding the clinic where she once worked.
Reconstructing the healthcare system in northern Gaza poses a significant challenge. Following an IDF attack in late December, the last remaining hospital ceased operations. Asmaa emphasized the need for medical supplies before they can resume their work. While her family fled south, Asmaa stayed behind to care for the sick and wounded. “There is no water, no electricity. To charge my phone, I have to walk an hour and a half to Gaza,” she shared, revealing her struggle to adapt to life in a tent and the harsh cold at night. Yet, her spirit remains resilient: “We will rebuild Gaza, but that won’t happen if we sit idly by. It will be a long and painful process.”
It remains unclear how many individuals returned to northern Gaza on Monday, but reports suggest the number exceeds one hundred thousand. The possibility of return has sparked relief not only among Palestinians but also in the international community, as many feared that Israel might permanently depopulate and occupy northern Gaza. Some Israeli politicians had even proposed establishing Jewish settlements in the region.
For now, this option seems off the table. However, a new chapter of uncertainty begins for the returnees. Life in the devastated landscapes of northern Gaza promises to be challenging, with the ever-present fear that conflict could reignite. Just before embarking on his journey north, Moayad al-Shafie summarized the ongoing struggle: “War seems to be a constant in Gaza, as inevitable as the passage of time.”