At the head of the oldest chocolate factory in Paris, the Dolfi brothers and sisters have built an empire dedicated to indulgence.
35, rue du Faubourg-Montmartre is home to the oldest chocolate factory in Paris. A pistachio storefront on which we read: “To the mother of the family, since 1761.” A few days before Easter, it’s crowded. People come from afar to buy a chicken or the famous “scrambled eggs” in homemade chocolate. On this day, the boutique welcomes a very special customer, Serge Neveu, the former owner. His eyes sparkle as he watches Steve, Sophie, Jonathan and Jane bustle about.
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All are in their forties and are siblings. They are the children of Étienne Dolfi, former supplier of praline sweets to the Nephews, who bought the shop in 2000. Twenty-two years later, the four children are at the helm. “I didn’t know anything about chocolate,” says Steve, the eldest, artistic director. For a year, we were trained by the Neveu family. We quickly felt the weight of the legacy. His sister, Sophie, in charge of personnel, had the idea of sparkling orange, which would become the flagship color of the house. Jonathan, his brother, is a financial director. Jane, the other sister, takes care of the major accounts.
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“Today, explains Jonathan, we have fifteen shops in Paris, 80 employees and 60 people in production. We offer 1,200 product references.” Over the years, the Dolfis have bought up patisseries and regional institutions all over France. Thus, in 2000, in Limoges the chocolate factory Buissière, specialist in Paladin. Saved also, Les Palets d’or in Moulins, the caramel of Au Négus in Nevers and the famous institution of the Basque Country Henriet. “We want these houses to keep their name, their traditions and their style. Even if it’s complex to manage several brands at the same time…” explains Sophie Dolfi. The siblings define themselves as “defenders of the sweet heritage”.
At Easter, the shops are transformed into a kingdom of gluttony and the family organizes itself: “Everyone packs, makes packages, ensures deliveries”, explains Sophie. “Marathon at Christmas, sprint at Easter! adds Steve, designated for scooter deliveries. Jonathan runs the cash register. Sophie and Jane welcome and pack the parcels in the reserve, where the boxes pile up to the point that it is difficult to make their way. 15% of the year’s turnover is achieved in five days. The rates soar: more than 30,000 casts made. The cocoa bean is precious, the Dolfis work with local cooperatives in Haiti, Madagascar or Peru. In 2018, the brothers and sisters bought the Stohrer pastry shop, a Parisian institution since 1730. A new challenge that made them gain 4 kilos each in one year! “At home, we like to make declarations of love with food,” laughs Steve Dolfi.