Top 5 of the best natural active ingredients, according to an expert

We no longer count the assets that are making the buzz and promise to be THE solution that we have been waiting for reduce our wrinkles and keep beautiful, well-plumped skin. But if you don’t lack options when you don’t forbid yourself anything to take care of your skin, the fight against wrinkles can be more difficult when you want to adopt a natural beauty routine. You have to make between the fear of not having such effective care and the difficulty of finding the product that contains nothing chemical. A real headache!

But Stéphane Soule, scientific communication specialist at Typology reassures us from the outset, a natural active ingredient is not necessarily less effective than another active ingredient: “it is rather in terms of environmental impact and harmlessness that we can favor a natural active ingredient over a synthetic one or vice versa”. According to him, you can totally rely on retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptides and coenzyme Q10, 5 natural active ingredients who are among the most effective anti-aging active ingredients to prevent your wrinkles from deepening and counteract the slackening of the skin that occurs over the years. And do not believe them reserved for your skincare routine after 40 or 50 years, it is recommended to apply hyaluronic acid and vitamin C on your skin “from the age of 20” and to integrate other purely anti-aging active ingredients such as retinol, coenzyme Q10 and peptides “around the age of 25 and thus taking care of your skin even before the appearance of the first wrinkles”.

Retinol

This antioxidant is very effective in neutralizing free radicals generated by various external factors such as stress, pollution, cigarette smoking or exposure to UV rays which “break down proteins and healthy skin cells”, thus accelerating its aging. It thus offers a preventive action on the signs of aging. Used in the care routine, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin of the skin so that it remains plumped and supple. If you are prone to pigment spots, this active will also regulate the overproduction of melanin to reduce them, but also exercise “a keratolytic action” and remove dead cells on the surface of the skin that dull the complexion to make it brighter.

Despite all its tantalizing anti-aging effects, retinol remains an active potentially irritating and drying, this is why it is not recommended to use it during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and to apply it if you have sensitive or reactive skin. Stéphane Soule also advises us to start by choosing a treatment that contains a low percentage (type: 0.01%) before gradually using more concentrated products for better skin tolerance. Regardless of the dosage used, retinol is a photosensitizing substance. It should therefore not be applied to your skin just before going out in the sun because it could then cause you irritation. In summer, its use is therefore reserved for the evening beauty routine, and always associated with the application of a sunscreen adapted to your skin type the next morning.

Vitamin C

Antioxidant, vitamin C also counters the action of free radicals to delay the appearance of signs of aging. At the same time, it boosts blood circulation and collagen production, while helping to oxygenate the skin, which promotes cell renewal and scarring and helps reduce the depth of wrinkles. Lightening, it also regulates the production of melanin to illuminate the complexion and prevent the formation of pigment spots. The only downside, as it is an unstable active ingredient, the skincare products that contain it often have an acid pH which makes it more stable but which can sometimes “cause irritation” in some people. This is why the expert recommends starting to use it in treatments with a low vitamin C dose before continuing with treatments that are more concentrated in active ingredients. If it is possible to apply morning and evening on his face, he also advises to favor an application in the morning because this is how the vitamin will be able to best neutralize the free radicals produced during the day when the skin is exposed. .

hyaluronic acid

A star active in anti-aging for many years now, hyaluronic acid does not have the same effects on the skin depending on the size of its molecule. When it is present at high molecular weight (> 1,800 kDa) in skincare products, it will mainly hydrate the skin by remaining on its surface and creating a protective film which prevents water evaporation, which offers a tightening effect that rejuvenates the skin at sight. But it is when used at low molecular weight (> 100 – 1000 kDa) that its smaller molecule works deep in the skin to stimulate the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, moisturize more intensely and plump it, which blurs wrinkles and gives the skin a plumper appearance. Very well tolerated regardless of skin type, it is a natural anti-aging active ingredient that can be used with confidence.

Peptides

There are different types and they act “on different targets involved in the support and density of the skin to limit skin aging” informs us Stéphane Soule. They can make the skin denser and accelerate its regeneration to reduce fine lines and avoid sagging skin like acetyl tetraptide-11, fight against free radicals like cyclopeptide-5 or even stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid to offer us a smoother skin, well hydrated and plump. Peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl tetraptide-9 and acetyl will strengthen the synthesis of collagen and elastin to counter the decline in natural production of the skin over the years and guarantee flexibility. and firmness. These anti-aging allies also have the advantage of being very well tolerated regardless of skin type. You can also use them morning and evening, provided that the formula of the care that contains them is not photosensitizing of course.

Coenzyme Q10

Antioxidant, coenzyme Q10 reduces oxidative stress and regenerates vitamin E to help us keep skin smooth and unified. By slowing down the production of enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin, it also delays the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin. It is also able to improve the appearance of dark spots because it inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin. But the best part is that it is well tolerated by all skin types – including the most sensitive – and has no contraindications according to the Typology expert. Another interesting advantage: it is a gentle anti-ageing active ingredient which is suitable for the fine reactive skin around the eye area which tends to show wrinkles.

Can we combine the anti-aging benefits of these different natural active ingredients?

It depends on the times. It is, for example, possible to associate the effectiveness of vitamin C and retinol in her anti-wrinkle routine, using a vitamin C treatment in the morning and another with retinol in the evening. “It has been shown that the combination of these two active ingredients in the same treatment can significantly slow down the aging process of the skin” assures Stéphane Soule. Vitamin C, which ensures the luminosity of the complexion, can also be associated with hyaluronic acid which has a complementary action by moisturizing and toning the skin. You can even apply both morning and evening actives, first applying the vitamin C one and then the hyaluronic acid one as the Typology expert suggests. Retinol can be used with peptides to maximize their respective effects and thus “have a double anti-aging action” which targets the different signs of aging as the expert explains.

But even if retinol and vitamin C can technically be used together, as they are two potentially irritating active ingredients, Stéphane Soule advises us not to use them together. Especially on sensitive and atopic skin which could suffer from some irritation with this duo of active ingredients. If you still plan to combine them, opt for a vitamin C treatment in the morning and a retinol treatment in the evening. Finally, note that while peptides can be combined with all ingredients, this is not the case with copper peptides which should not be combined with products containing vitamin C. Just check the list of ingredients of your care to see and look for the mention “copper peptide”.

Passionate about writing and beauty, Elodie swaps her lipstick for her laptop to find you the best makeup, hair and skincare trends, and pro tips…