Built by the Genoese in the 15th century on a promontory overlooking the port and the lower town, the citadel of Calvi is surrounded by a labyrinth of cobbled streets that we walk in the footsteps of Christopher Columbus, born here … according to a local legend . From the top of the ramparts, the gaze embraces the Mediterranean, the villages in the hinterland and the snow-capped peaks in the center of the island. Start by exploring the coastline of this region nicknamed the "Garden of Corsica" because of its strong agricultural and pastoral tradition. In Lumio, a 30-minute walk takes you to the ghost village of Occi, abandoned since the 19th century. Between Calvi and L'Île-Rousse, the michelines of the Corsican railways serve the beaches of Lumio, Sant'Ambroggio, Algajola, Davia, Ghjunchitu, Bodri … which are all invitations to swim in a turquoise sea.
Villages of character
To protect themselves from the Genoese invaders, the Balanins built their villages on rocky peaks. Surrounded by orchards or olive groves, they are home to a population proud of its traditions and local specialties – cold meats, sheep's cheese, olive oil, honey … In Pigna, the restored stone houses are home to numerous stalls. craftsmen. In Aregno, one does not fail to visit the 11th century Pisan church, built in polychrome granite. The winding road then climbs up to Sant’Antonino, an eagle's nest with a medieval atmosphere. Near Calenzana, the Montemaggiore belvedere offers breathtaking views of the Gulf of Calvi and the surrounding mountains. In Speloncato, which winds around the ruins of the castle, you can have a drink on the terrace in the square of the fountain, where the elders meet.
Towards the summits
Calenzana is the starting point of the GR 20, the legendary trail that crosses Corsica from north to south. Not far away, a more accessible walk leads to the Bonifatu cirque, a mineral amphitheater bristling with red granite needles, where it is not uncommon to see mouflons. Under the cover of laricios pines and holm oaks, the shaded path follows a river that is crossed by a suspension bridge. The bravest will climb to the Carrozzu refuge. Nearby, under the impressive suspended footbridge of Spasimata, a natural basin allows you to bathe in the fresh water of the torrent. Back in Calvi or L’Ile Rousse, you can take a dip in the Mediterranean. The sea and the mountains? It’s in Corsica, it’s in Balagne.
In practice
Go
With Air Corsica or Air France, Paris-Calvi A / R from € 200. With Corsica Linea or Corsica Ferries, to L’Ile-Rousse from Toulon, Nice or Marseille, return for 4 people. with a car from 250 €.
Stay
In Calvi. Hotel Le Cyrnéa. Quiet 400 m from the beach, swimming pool and family rooms. Double from € 90. Hotel-cyrnea.fr
In Ile-Rousse. Hotel La Pietra. Exceptional location by the sea. Double room from 93 €. Hotel-lapietra.com
In Pigna. Casa Musicale. Double room from 60 €. Local cuisine. Casa-musicale.org
To bring back
Oru di Balagna ("gold from Balagne"), a multiple award-winning olive oil produced by the Corbara olive cooperative. cooperativeoleicoledebalagne-99.webself.net
Information
balagne-corsica.com
Read also :
⋙ The site that will make you fall in love with Corsica
⋙ All about local beers
⋙ South Corsica: places to visit in autumn