Brittany is attracting a growing number of holidaymakers in summer: 12.8 million went there in 2019 (according to the Brittany regional tourism committee). We better understand the magnetism of the region by going to the bay of Goulven, about forty kilometers west of Morlaix, which offers panoramas combining turquoise waters and long white sand beaches, worthy of the Balearic Islands, without having to endure hours of flying.
La Butte, in Plouider, an establishment that combines a hotel, a restaurant with two stars (one red, rewarding cuisine, one green distinguishing establishments committed to protecting the environment) and bistro, is set on a hill overlooking the moor and the Bay. It is a singular place, created in 1952 by a woman who was just as special: Jeanne-Yvonne Bécam, a peasant woman who dared to open her own inn on her own.
Her granddaughter, Solène Conraux, and her husband, Nicolas, who runs the kitchens, continue to dig her furrow, on the fringes of convenience. Certainly, La Butte Plouider offers all the services of a top-of-the-range establishment, and even a spa with sauna and indoor swimming pool. But, thanks to the bistro part, where farmers and surfers mingle, it also reconnects with its roots, a village café full of good humor, organized around a long round counter.
“I’m shaking up the recipe a bit by using hogweed pepper, which you can replace with another spice with tangy notes. »
The chef, Nicolas Conraux, self-taught, was passionate about the terroir and local products before short circuits became trendy. “As I didn’t have a crazy technique, I spontaneously relied on the quality of the products, he said smiling. It was my producers who allowed me to find my identity. »
At breakfast, no squeezed orange juice, but apple juice with hogweed pepper, from a plant he finds on the surrounding embankments and which has a citrus scent. He doesn’t use lemon either, but apple cider vinegar. And the bistro menu naturally gives pride of place to the wonders of the region: octopus from the coast, oysters from Plouguerneau, tomme cheese from Keroudy…
The boss offers us a dish based on naturalness. “Summer is the good season for turbothe says. I offer it with a white butter to keep a foothold in the French gastronomic heritage, but I shake up the recipe a bit by using hogweed pepper which can be replaced by another spice with tangy notes such as fresh pepper from Madagascar. »
Steamed turbot fillet with tangy white butter, green cabbage with hogweed
For 4 people
Preparation time: 30 mins
Ingredients :
- 400 g skinless turbot fillet
- 4 young hogweed leaves
- 2 shallots
- 1 cl of white wine
- 1 cl of white vinegar
- 1 small green cabbage
- dried or fresh hogweed seeds (or another spice with tangy notes such as fresh Madagascar pepper)
- flower of salt
- olive oil
Peel the shallots and ginger. Cut them into small pieces and put them in a saucepan with the white wine and white vinegar to reduce gently until almost all. Strain through a clean cloth and reserve the liquid in the pan.
Divide the turbot fillet in four. Arrange each fillet on a sheet of hogweed cut with a knife. To book.
Wash the green cabbage and remove the first four leaves. Cut it into four and remove the hard core. Finish by chopping it up.
Cook the cabbage for 15 minutes in a Vitaliseur (or a steamer), taking care to salt it.
Meanwhile, whisk the vinegar reduction with the cold butter, cut into small cubes and using a whisk. Taking care to keep a temperature of around 63 degrees (you can feel the heat by putting your hand on the bottom of the pan).
Keep the cabbage warm while cooking the fish on its foil in the Vitaliseur basket for 6 minutes.
Arrange on a plate, garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and hogweed pepper. Enjoy immediately.
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