This spring-summer 2023 season in Paris, which runs from September 26 to October 4, displays 105 brands registered in the official calendar established by the Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode. Among the must-haves and the luxury giants such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, eleven new entrants should be noted: young shoots, but also already well-established labels, wanting to shake up their habits or take advantage of the visibility that only the capital French fashion can offer. A brief overview.
Victoria Beckham, the star
Britain’s Victoria Beckham is unquestionably the headliner of these new arrivals. Those who remember her debut on the fashion scene in 2008 can measure how far the former Spice Girls singer has come. Since her first uninventive elegant little dresses, she has sharpened her stylistic eye to offer a complete wardrobe that is particularly attentive to today’s desires. Pieces with minimalist accents: large woolen coats, draped or pleated dresses, comfortable knit cardigans or perfectly structured trousers. Victoria Beckham has previously paraded in New York and London. Showing her collection in Paris is an acknowledgment for the designer, who confided in August to M The magazine of the World feel like “a tiny fish in an ocean”.
Zimmermann, the bohemian sisters
This Australian label created by sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann in 1991 has continued to grow and attract an international clientele. Their specialty: bohemian sets with floral and colorful prints which we sometimes tend to sum up the brand. However, Zimmermann is much more than that. That an Australian brand has indeed managed to carve out a place for itself on the fashion world map, all the way to Paris, demonstrates this well. Their wardrobe tinged with a very seventies folk spirit, of Victorian-inspired dresses, lace and brocade or velvet imposed its identity. And the latter pleases. The brand now has twenty-one stores in Australia, fourteen in the United States and three in France: in Paris, Cannes and Saint-Tropez. After several years attached to New York fashion week, the Zimmermann sisters are therefore attacking Paris.
Boutet Solanes, the eco-responsible
A graduate of Esmod, designer Constance Boutet launched her fashion label, Boutet Solanes, in the midst of the health crisis, in 2020, alongside her companion, photographer José Maria Solanes. Specializing in the creation of silk prints – she spent three years in China to perfect her skills – Constance Boutet also worked for Celine. For this spring-summer 2023 collection, the duo therefore integrates the official calendar with a beautiful minimalist, functional… and responsible wardrobe: the leathers come from France, the mesh from Italy and the nylon jersey is made from fishing nets. recycled.
Weinsanto, the flamboyant
At 28, the Alsatian Victor Weinsanto, who launched his label of the same name in 2020, has already had a first life. In another time, he was a ballet dancer in Stuttgart (Germany). From this experience, he has kept a certain taste for the theatrical which he transcribes in his grandiloquent creations. Trained at the Atelier Chardon Savard in Paris, then in the houses of Chloé and Jean Paul Gaultier, Victor Weinsanto imagines his collections as performances, turning his fashion shows into shows. Featured in the list of finalists for the LVMH 2022 prize, the young man offers a wardrobe that is not shy, mixing almost transparent jumpsuits, slit mini-dresses worn with imposing capes or even bodysuits passed through over corsets.
Anna October, the romantic
Exiled in France since the events of early 2022 in her country of origin, Ukraine, Anna October is joining the official Parisian collection calendar this season. While supporting her fellow citizens through the association Better Community, she imagined her new wardrobe from Paris. Launched in 2010, her brand of the same name, made from end of stock or scrap fabric, revolves around romantic and delicate dresses or skirts, sometimes incorporating elements of lingerie, and available in powdery shades.