Since the decree of September 13, 1993, taken by the government of Edouard Balladur, the composition of the baguette “French tradition” is strictly supervised. Cooked on site by the baker, it must be made only with flour, water, salt, yeast and/or sourdough. Exit, therefore, all the additives and preservatives that can legally be found in other breads. The dough must also not undergo freezing treatment during its production. It is with this bread that we can judge the quality of a baker. However, in recent years, it has been increasingly difficult to find a good traditional baguette, in Paris and in the Paris region.
There are several reasons for this. More and more bakers are abandoning this flagship product to concentrate on large pieces of bread, which are much more profitable. The very variable quality of certain baguettes has also diverted customers towards other breads. In any case, here are five traditional chopsticks that passed the crash test with flying colors!
The traditional baguette from La Rue Palloy
After obtaining a law degree, Amaury Fieutelot took a CAP baker’s certificate as a free candidate. In 2017, with his wife, he opened the bakery La Rue Palloy, in Clichy, in Hauts-de-Seine. For the raw materials for their various creations, the couple mainly obtains their supplies from a short circuit, and collects raw milk and eggs. directly on the farm. Not to be missed under any circumstances, the terribly creamy pastry flan, and the 1.6 kilo organic pie with its caramelized crust and slightly acidic crumb.
Our opinion : This baguette has the surprising particularity of being made from flour manufactured and crushed on site, on a stone millstone. In addition, it benefits from a long sourdough fermentation which facilitates digestion. Cream-colored crumb tending to brown, very crispy crust and strong flavors, with a subtle taste of wheat on the finish.
Price : 1.35 euros.
Bakery La Rue Palloy, 50, rue Palloy, Clichy (Hauts-de-Seine).
Pascal & Anthony’s traditional baguette
In 2017, baker Pascal Hérault and pastry chef Anthony Raingeval opened a shop in Paris, in a neighborhood very poor in quality bakeries. Formerly of the Gontran-Cherrier house, they quickly found their clientele by offering a gourmet range very rich in flavors.
Our opinion : this baguette is designed using poolish, a pre-fermentation method which allows the development of a more airy dough, with a soft, delicately honeycombed crumb and a particularly crispy crust. A tradition in balance.
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