The Americans invented a perfumery of character, with a very specific opulence, which ended up imposing itself internationally. In 1952, Youth-Dew, by Estée Lauder, an explosive mixture of white flowers, spices and woody notes, was the first great classic of this perfumery. Unlike “French” perfumes which unfold gradually, juices made in the USA deliver their trail immediately, as soon as they are applied to the skin. There is an explanation for this search for efficiency: the first American women to wear perfume regularly were active women. In the post-war period, these pioneers had to create their own style and assert their existence and their independence. Only a very demonstrative perfume could help them. Among a plethoric offer, these four fragrances are best-sellers in American perfumery.
A breath of spring, white flowers and citrus on a woody background, as pure and clean as a sheet drying in the sun.
White Linen, Estée Lauder, €100 for 60 ml.
The quintessential chypre, with a vinous rose married to dark and earthy patchouli for a bewitching note.
Aromatics Elixir, Clinique, €116 for 100 ml.
The evocation of a polo field, the smell of cut grass and the leather of the saddle, up to adrenaline.
Polo Ralph Lauren, €98 for 118 ml.
An ode to eternal love, where even the roses, which nevertheless fade, are immaculate and ethereal.
Calvin Klein Eternity, €115 for 100ml.