Can a chef still do without a vegetable garden? Five years ago, the question would have seemed absurd. Today, nothing seems to stop their proliferation, and this, whatever the gastronomic ambitions and the geographical location of the establishment. A grill in the inner suburbs of Paris praises the merits of its “vegetable garden of aromatic herbs which, in addition to being used in dishes and cocktails, perfume the place”. A luxury hotel in Paris has installed beehives on its roof and found a piece of land in Seine-et-Marne. To conquer a third star, Stéphanie Le Quellec, located near the Elysée, took one hectare in the Loire Valley… “Everyone wants to show a green paw”summarizes Alexandre Couillon, chef based on the island of Noirmoutier who developed a vegetable garden six years ago, at a time when he did not grow much other than potatoes in the vicinity of his restaurant.
“The real question is: how much of what is served at the table does the garden represent? »Nicolas Chatenier, consultant
“A vegetable garden makes sense for those who do not have access to market gardeners in their kitchen, estimates the consultant Nicolas Chatenier. There’s a lot of storytelling on this subject at the moment, but the real question is: how much of what is served at the table does the garden represent? » In the case of Alexandre Couillon, the vegetable garden has become not only the main source of supply (approximately 80% of the fruits and vegetables served) but also the source of inspiration for his dishes since he establishes his menu each morning according to of the harvest.
An economic “madness”
But often, the garden is more decorative than nurturing. “Many chefs communicate about their three plantations when they represent barely 10% of the vegetables consumed in restaurants”notes Hélène Luzin, consultant. “We don’t realize the quantities a restaurant requires. Economically, it’s a madness”adds Nicolas Chatenier, who points out that one of the pioneers in the field, Alain Passard, invoices the Arpège for its spring menu 490 euros.
Chef Christophe Hay confirms: a serious vegetable garden costs a lot of money. He who has the ambition to restore to the Center region its historical role of “France’s food garden” invested 200,000 euros to cultivate 1.5 hectares in Loir-et-Cher. He now hires four gardeners (including two seasonal workers) who ensure self-sufficiency for his three brands. For him, the investment is justified because the vegetable garden “enriches [s]a kitchen ». “We harvest the products when they are at their peak of taste and they don’t spoil in a cold room. The teams are always happy to be able to recharge their batteries there. Customers too. »
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