when fashion is projected in the world after

Surprised by the pandemic a year ago, the creators went through a phase of uncertainty and anxiety, expressed during the previous season through locker rooms that were both portable and representative of the brand’s DNA. Six months later, a change of mood: depression seems less fashionable than the anticipation of a bright and festive future, where we would reconnect with the pleasure of getting dressed to go out and parade.

Loewe.

“This collection is not a fantasy, but an optimistic projection of the future. In the months to come, fashion will gain in importance, it will give everyone the confidence to go out again ”, assumes Jonathan Anderson. The British designer has designed an opulent collection for Loewe, an aesthetic research around exceptional volumes, a flood of saturated colors on graphic compositions.

In detail, there are XXL brooches embroidered and scattered over a dress, interwoven drapes, costumes with hems weighted with giant pompoms, quilted coats with puffed sleeves … “This collection is a kind of letting go, clothes to get high, to enjoy”, says Jonathan Anderson. To stage it, he printed a fake paper newspaper whose first page announces in capital letters that “The Loewe show has been canceled”.

Inside, photos of the collection taken under the gilding of the Le Train bleu restaurant in Paris or at the Païva mansion on the Champs-Elysées, and in the midst of all this pomp, an extract from the next novel by bestselling writer Danielle Steel. This literary choice surprises coming from Jonathan Anderson, who usually collaborates with very specialized artists … but after all, if it is about ” let go “, we are in the theme.

Thom Browne.

“My idea was for a woman in a tuxedo to jump from a helicopter on the mountain and start skiing”, says Thom Browne, from New York, while showing the images of the season: a black and white wardrobe where the formal mixes with sportswear with an almost couture extravagance. The meeting of “Extreme sports and extreme tuxedo”, sums up the creator. The volumes are insane, the materials worked with unexpected sophistication. Funny wardrobe for a pandemic? “We’re going to end up going back to the restaurant and the theater. And then, in a gloomy era, I wanted to offer a creative collection, the opposite of what we currently wear to communicate by interposed screen! “

Lanvin.

At Lanvin too, we only think of having fun. “I’m from the generation that watched the clips on MTV repeatedly”, tells the artistic director, Bruno Sialelli, explaining why his collection film is one too. Sure Rich Girl, the sounding and stumbling hit of Gwen Stefani released in 2004, a group of exuberant girls invade a Parisian palace (the Shangri-La) and lead a slightly decadent life, passing from a reception room that they cross in 4 x 4 miniatures to a suite filled with Lanvin boxes, where they happily try on coats with backs lined with feathers, pink mini-dresses with train, or bustiers printed with pearls and lipsticks …

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“I really want to go out, to party, to go to a hotel, continues the creator. This is why I preferred to project myself directly into the post-pandemic era, hoping that we will find a rich social life, where fashion can fully play its role in staging and asserting oneself. “

Spending the evenings under curfew obviously does not prevent Kevin Germanier from dreaming of the next world. Since he launched the label in his name in 2018, the designer has stood out with his colorful and rhinestone fashion, which is entirely eco-responsible. Her new collection does not deviate from the initial line, mixing a Harlequin-style embroidered costume, candy pink miniskirt edged with feathers, blinding dresses lined with silver crystals. His grandmother, Simone, knitted the prototype of the sequined suit which he calls his favorite look.

Lutz Huelle.

“A restaurant, a bar, go out dancing or even take a stroll in the city at night” : Lutz Huelle misses everything. Called “Le Plaisir”, his collection praises the joy of getting ready before brushing the asphalt. Two-tone denim jacket and pink or purple wool coat, all-terrain fluid ensemble in silk satin: this is what prepares people to breathe more often. We can even imitate him by following his tutorial video where he teaches how to transform, with a pair of scissors, an old T-shirt into an architectured top with a scarf. History that, when the “Normal life” will resume, everyone is ready for the bag.

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