when the creators pass their turn

When they arrived at the Ester Manas fashion show on February 27, the guests found touching touches on their seats. Postcards or card stock with the same handwritten message everywhere: “Missed you!” » (“We missed you!”). This is because the couple behind the label, formed by Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, made their return to Paris Fashion Week after voluntarily skipping last season. “When you are an emerging brand, you are a designer 20% of the time. For the rest, we take care of commercial strategy and administration.testifies Ester Manas. There, we took a step back to design, strengthen our locker room and plan for the future. »

Coming and going to fashion week? Until now, skipping a season of fashion shows was tolerated due to a handover between two artistic directors, or, in extreme cases, a designer burning out or cash flow in arrears. “But as soon as a creator was absent, we heard everywhere in the industry: “it’s over for him”recalls Sophie Brocart, responsible for tutoring the winners of the LVMH prize for young fashion designers. Today, withdrawing for a moment is increasingly accepted, and it’s healthy. »

This is the case, for the fall-winter 2024-2025 collections in Paris, of brands like Etudes or Y/Project, the latter indicating that the amount of the canceled show will be used to “the growth of the company, its teams and its product offering”. Rather than spending at least 50,000 euros twice a year for ten minutes of a show, some prefer to settle for a video; of a look book (photo portfolio) sent to professionals, as did Y/Project; or a more confidential presentation during a less expensive private meeting, which Peter Do and Bianca Saunders chose this season.

Conversely, Off-White is back on the podium, a label which was in decline last season. “We’re back!” », triumphs the label’s director of art and image, Ibrahim Kamara, in his note of intent. At the Carrousel du Louvre, on a pop decor in the shape of a giant game of goose, with two XXL rhinestone dice in the center, the stylist proposed, on February 29, a great, exciting mix, inspired by African-American culture: frayed or beaded denim; leather thigh-high boots combined with teddy jackets; rhinestone rugby polo shirts and mesh bags for carrying around the basketball; spunky jackets, checkered, covered with stars, stitched with butterflies in relief…

The parade was applauded by tennis champion Serena Williams, actress Halle Bailey and singer Willow Smith. A sign that the sums saved on the show spanned six months ago could be reinvested in the presence of celebrities in the front row, all bowing to Kamara backstage in an atmosphere which smelled of the joy of returning to the game.

This is because giving up on a presentation is not without pain. “When you have the parade reflex and you are caught up in the frantic race of fashion, it’s true that you have to wean yourself off”admits Aurélien Arbet, co-founder of the men’s fashion collective Etudes, who took his turn during the last Paris men’s fashion week in January. “You have the impression of a serious oversight, like: “did I turn off the gas correctly?” »funnyly compares Balthazar Delepierre.

Military trenches and mesh ponchos

In London, the American Conner Ives, 28, has decided to only show once a year, like on February 18, where he unveiled a wardrobe for a liberated cowgirl, influenced by the 2000s. . “For a modest brand like mine, doing two shows a year doesn’t make sense financially or emotionally. And what’s the point of marching if it doesn’t feel measured and sacred? »he argues.

“Skidding a season can also become a trapnuance Serge Carreira, director of emerging brands at the French Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. Before long, department store buyers can reduce their orders or turn you away. The press may lose interest in you and look elsewhere. The most important thing is to know how to come back stronger. »

This is what the British Steven Stokey-Daley achieved. While he was away from the catwalks for spring-summer 2024, this menswear designer, winner of the LVMH prize in 2022, took the time to secure the financial investment of a close friend, pop star Harry Styles, who became a minority shareholder, to better make his return during a fashion show in Florence, Italy, in early January. Much applauded after months of absence, he alternated during his show military trench coats, mesh ponchos and rural school outfits.

The Frenchwoman Ester Manas and the Belgian Balthazar Delepierre, newly married, were able to make the most of their time and a prize of 100,000 euros won in June 2023 during the competition of the National Association for the Development of Fashion Arts for their words in a successful and delightful collection, easy to access and presented on a diversity of body types – when thinness triumphs almost everywhere else. Very sexy leather biker jackets and zipped trench coats, short down jackets, tight knit dresses with cutouts highlighting the chest, or transparent ones with frilly details, are worn with gathered bags and futuristic glasses.

“We had the time to analyze more deeply the clothing needs of the girls who inspire usassures the couple, smiling from ear to ear. This reunion was our gift to them. Like you would give a loved one, who you haven’t seen for a while and who you missed, flowers, chocolates or a hug. »