VSow is a revolution born? There is no switch, an instantaneous transition from night to light. But there are always sparks, quivers, imperceptible signs that grow over time. Before upsetting the established order.
Undeniably, the glass bottle was a revolution for wine. Invented in 1632 and widespread during the 18th centurye century, it changed everything; its taste, its transport, its trade, its conservation. The XXIe century will it see the advent of a new container? Maybe. The bell has not yet tolled on its glass but, little by little, the defects are accumulating: the traditional bottle is no longer the perfect container.
Now is not the time for a big replacement. The era is rather “at the same time”. You have to adapt. Adapting to soaring energy costs, which have made glass frighteningly expensive; up to 40% increase in two years. Adapting to a not-so-glamorous carbon footprint: its manufacturing, its recycling and especially its transport affect the carbon footprint of wine; in fact, with 350 grams of CO2 emitted per bottle (i.e. 40% of the total carbon footprint), the packaging pollutes almost as much as the product itself. Finally, we must adapt to consumers, whose meals are eaten more and more outside, less and less at the table; and who, above all, drink less and less wine.
While only 8% of French people consume it every day, and the majority fall into the category of “occasional drinkers”, the idea of opening a 75 centiliter bottle (i.e. six large glasses of 12.5 cl or eight glasses of a more modest size) for a dinner for two seems almost incongruous. It’s not just that it’s too big and won’t be finished the same evening, it’s that you wonder if the wine will still be good when you finish it.
Aesthetics, values and conservation
However, the French remain very attached to it. According to a 2022 Dynata study, 75% of them only choose this format when shopping. Its aesthetics and the message of quality sent by the glass bottle are reassuring. It conveys values, a respect for tradition which stick to the spirit of the wine. And then the strong argument always comes back: it allows long conservation, a healthy evolution of the wine, even harmonious aging that other containers cannot guarantee today.
A debatable argument nonetheless: more than 80% of bottles purchased in France are consumed within the year. If the hegemony of glass is indisputable for grands crus and other prestigious wines for aging, its usefulness is almost zero for the bulk of production.
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