These active ingredients, often derived from biotechnological research, include peptides, antioxidants, ceramides, and various natural extracts, which aim to improve the health and appearance of the skin. These active ingredients can help reduce signs of aging, deeply hydrate and improve skin elasticity and firmness. Integrated into creams, serums and other products, they meet a growing demand for personalized and effective care.
1. Polyglutamic acid, the ultra-powerful moisturizer
Resulting from the fermentation of soybeans, PGA reveals itself 5 times more powerful than hyaluronic acid, the undisputed star of hydration. By swelling on contact with water, its molecules are capable of retaining up to 5,000 times their weight in liquid: their size keeps them on the surface where they form a rehumidifying film which helps to maintain the skin barrier at peak activity. The only downside is that, unlike hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid is not produced naturally by the human body and its synthesis by cells cannot therefore be boosted by an external supply. And for lack of being able to penetrate the epidermis, it acts mainly on the surface, which is why it is generally associated with moisturizing molecules smaller in size for global action.
It’s for me ? If you need an express plumping and smoothing effect.
Our selection :
97% natural origin. Moisturizing Serum, Sephora, €19.99
Anti-evaporation. Circular Hydration Serum, Dermalogica, €64
2. Postbiotics, protective agents
These molecules are secreted by probiotics following a fermentation process. Kinds of beneficial residues from this process, they include enzymes, peptides, polysaccharides, proteins and fatty acids which strengthen the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier. This cocktail, which has demonstrated an anti-inflammatory action on acne for example, also includes lactic acid which helps better control the pH of the skin in order to maintain an environment conducive to the development of good bacteria. The key is a healthy and balanced environment that prevents the development of inflammation, infections and even certain skin diseases.
It’s for me ? If your skin lacks comfort, shows redness and you regularly experience sensations of irritation, heating or even itching.
Our selection :
Regenerating. Universal Face Cream, Gallinée, €40
Soothing. Repairing Moisturizing Treatment. Cicalfate+, Avène, €13.50
3. Chaga, the super-antioxidant
Considered a “superfood” with miraculous virtues, chaga is a birch parasitic mushroom well known in traditional Russian medicine, which flourishes in arctic climates. Once fermented to be integrated into care formulas, this “mushroom of immortality” rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants stimulates the skin’s immune defenses and strengthens it from the inside. Chaga also has an anti-glycation action recently highlighted by university studies: capable of preventing the excessive fixation of sugars on collagen fibers, it prevents their stiffening and browning and therefore helps to preserve both skin density and radiance.
It’s for me ? If you feel like your skin is starting to sag and your complexion is duller.
Our selection :
Anti-glycation. Immortalis Chaga Serum, Saève, €69
Harmonizing. Beau Jour Cream, Absolution, €49
4. Inulin, the rebalancing ally
This polysaccharide composed of glucose and fructose serves as food for the friendly bacteria present on the surface of the skin and helps them to develop well to maintain the epidermis in good health. The inulin integrated into cosmetic treatments is generally extracted from the roots of chicory but it is also found in many plants, notably garlic, asparagus, artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes, which use it to store oil. energy. This sugar with film-forming properties also allows to hydrate the skin and rebalance its microbiome in order to prevent dysbiosis, that is to say the colonization of pathogenic microorganisms which upset the skin’s balance and lead to the appearance of imperfections.
It’s for me ? If your skin has small pimples from time to time or your pores are dilated.
Our selection :
Repairer. Cica Daily Serum Bariéderm, Uriage, €32.20
Balancing. Prebiotic Inulin Protective Booster 4%, Pai Skincare, €19
5. Rice, natural anti-aging
The first cereal consumed in the world, rice is also popular for its high content of vitamin E and essential fatty acids which make it a very powerful natural antioxidant. Thanks to its richness in inositol, a hydrating and regenerating molecule that stimulates cell renewal, rice also promotes tissue regeneration and collagen synthesis. for smoother, firmer skin. Its starch contributes to maintain a sufficiently hydrated hydrolipid film by limiting water loss. Finally, it is also the ally of sensitive or reactive skin since it relieves irritation thanks to its high level of healing allantoin and aldehydes with anti-inflammatory properties.
It’s for me ? If you are looking for a global regenerating treatment that acts on density, firmness and hydration.
Our selection :
Relaxing. Revitalizing Eye Care, Oryza Lab, €52
Shot of brilliance. Rice tonic Rice, I’m from, €25.56 at Nocibé
6. Succinic acid, the anti-imperfection star
Naturally present in certain plants such as rhubarb, lemon or broccoli, it is an organic alternative to salicylic acid which acts on the skin microbiota by strengthening and rebalancing it. Like its illustrious anti-imperfection predecessor, it gently exfoliates dead cells to purify the skin but it also has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties which allow it to regulate sebum production while fighting free radicals and participating in the preservation of collagen. As it also helps retain water in skin cells, it is a versatile active ingredient: expect to see it everywhere soon!
It’s for me ? If you need to deeply purify your skin and are looking for a natural active ingredient that preserves hydration at the same time.
Our selection :
Refines pores. Strawberry Smooth clarifying serum, Glow Recipe, €42
Target. Anti-Blemish Treatment with Succinic Acid, The Inkey List, €11
7. PHAs, exfoliants for sensitive skin
Generally derived from lactose, these poly-hydroxy acids are renowned for their ultra-gentle keratolytic action, which currently makes them the flagship active ingredients in peels. night cream and exfoliants for sensitive skin. As a bonus, their moisturizing, antioxidant and soothing properties are valuable assets for dry skin and epidermis prone to redness. They are also interesting for regulating imperfection problems because they have the capacity to lower the skin’s pH and, in turn, to help eliminate bad bacteria which need alkalinity to proliferate. By helping to strengthen the presence of friendly bacteria, PHAs help calm inflammation, soothe the epidermis and solidify the hydrolipid barrier.
It’s for me ? If you need to boost the radiance of your face but have sensitive or easily irritable skin.
Our selection :
Anti-aging and anti-imperfections. PHA + AHA Clear Skin Peeling Treatment, Novexpert Laboratories, €34.95
2 mins time! Skin Hero Peeling with Ginseng, Erborian, €40.90
8. HPR, high tolerance retinol
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, its full name, is a new generation retinoid, 10 times more powerful than retinol pure but without risk of irritation or unpleasant side effects (dryness, redness or flaking). On the program: effective action on wrinkles thanks to its ability to improve cell renewal, boost collagen synthesis and act on Langerhans cells, those responsible for skin immune defense. But it also helps regulate melanocytes to prevent the appearance of stains and neutralize the enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin for firm skin with preserved density.
It’s for me ? If you have sensitive skin and have always wanted to benefit from the anti-aging properties of retinol.
Our selection :
Special for sensitive skin. Retinol + HPR Ceramide Regenerating Aqua-Cream, Elizabeth Arden, €92
Efficiency and gentleness. Anti-aging serum Emulsion of Granactive Retinoid 2%, The Ordinary, €13.50
Mother-of-pearl is introduced into cosmetics
Used by the Mayans to make the ancestors of dental implants and more recently studied by dental surgeons for its restorative properties on bones, mother-of-pearl is today integrated into cosmetic treatments. His secret: complex lipids which participate in the restoration of the skin barrier of all skin, even the most fragile. To discover in particular at Blue Skincare.
Know how to read the list of components of a product
The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients lists all the components of a cosmetic product, classified from the highest dosage to the lowest. Chemically processed ingredients appear in English and natural ones in Latin. Logically, the key ingredient of the product must appear first: a rose treatment that indicates “rosa” at the end of the list therefore does not encourage confidence!
The top 3 best asset associations
Hesitant to layer assets? Here is our trifecta of synergies that potentiate them!
- Niacinamide + vitamin C = reinforced anti-stain action
- Hyaluronic acid + vitamin C = a solid firming duo
- Retinol + bakuchiol = a powerful anti-wrinkle combination
Home peels, test them before using them
“These products boost skin renewal while eliminating dead cells thanks to salicylic acid, which penetrates deeply and can be irritating, AHAs (glycolic, mandelic, lactic acids, etc.), which are gentler, or PHAs, which are mainly active. surface. Before you start, test the product in the elbow crease for the recommended application time. The tingling is normal but it should not persist. No other reaction? Clean your face with milk (no foaming gel with irritating surfactants), wait 20 minutes for the sebum to reform, and off you go. Be careful to respect the application time indicated by the brand, rinse with cool water and dry gently. Last tip: use it preferably in the evening and, for the first time, the day before a day when you have no important events, in case redness appears.”
Thanks to Cyrille Telinge, founder of the Novexpert brand.
Read also :
Hyaluronic acid, lactic acid…Which molecules should you adopt for beautiful skin?
Find out what the best moisturizing ingredient for the face is (and it’s not hyaluronic acid)
30, 40, 50 years old: what beauty routine with natural active ingredients should you adopt according to your age?