The use of transparency by Yves Saint Laurent, the inspiration for popular clothing in haute couture, the epic of the Miss Dior line, the celebration of the great divas of this world… This summer, a multitude of exhibitions, in France and in Europe, endeavor to tell a short history of fashion. A selection to discover with the family.
Saint Laurent, from forms to transparencies
Yves Saint Laurent’s rich contribution to fashion allows museums and institutions to multiply exhibitions without repeating themselves. This is the case with two clashes devoted to the French couturier. In Paris, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum offers an exploration of the different geometries and forms highlighted in his work. “We know the work of Saint Laurent around the travels or the painters who inspired him. We know less about his approach to the pure form of clothing.comments the director of the museum, Elsa Janssen.
The “Trapèze” line, for example, with its fluid silhouette marked at the waist that he developed at Dior, set the tone from 1958. We also find his graphic approach around black and white, creating optical games, or well again his use of strong colors, thus creating skilfully assembled fabric panels. A succession of curves and lines which are expressed through the garment and which are put here in dialogue with the ceramic works of the German artist Claudia Wieser.
In Calais, the City of Lace and Fashion is interested in the use of transparency in Saint Laurent’s collections, in collaboration with the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris. Through some sixty models, the hanging presents the unveiled bodies, the shown bodies and the adorned bodies.
Evening dresses with transparent effects or daring cutouts, a blouse worn topless from 1968, a deep neckline in the back shaped with Chantilly lace on a dress from 1970… Saint Laurent undresses female bodies with lace, tulle , muslin or even cotton organdy, and thus participates in their release.
” Yves Saint Laurent. Shapes »until January 14, 2024 at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, 5, avenue Marceau, Paris 8e.
” Yves Saint Laurent. Transparencies »until November 12 at the City of Lace and Fashion, 135, quai du Commerce, Calais (Pas-de-Calais).
A Dior Gallery to rediscover and more if artistic affinities
The Dior Gallery, a Parisian museum opened by the brand in 2022 and entirely devoted to its own heritage, is offering a new exhibition route. This new hanging highlights in particular the Miss Dior line. Created in 1967 by Marc Bohan, who was artistic director of Dior from 1960 to 1989, Miss Dior is a more accessible line than the main line, which is part of the democratization of ready-to-wear. Dior’s desire is then to dress all women. We thus find corolla skirts, floral prints or long and vaporous tulle dresses for the evening.
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