André, Kookaï, Gap…: the reasons for a carnage


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Two specialists explain to the “Point” what pushes many historic ready-to-wear brands to lower the curtain one after the other.




By Alice Pairo-Vasseur

Lagging behind and surrounded on all sides, do historic brands have a chance of getting out of it?
Lagging behind and surrounded on all sides, do historic brands have a chance of getting out of this? “It is very likely that the carnage is not over,” predicts economist Philippe Moati.
© Philippe Huguen/AFP

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ATndre, Camaïeu, Kookaï, San Marina, Burton, Gap… It’s a dark series for French ready-to-wear. The end of an era too, as these brands had established themselves in the landscape of our city centers. Emblematic of the 1990s, they are now, in turn, lowering the curtain. In question, “an explosive cocktail of economic and structural elements”, explains Philippe Moati, professor of economics at the University of Paris Cité and founder of Obsoco (Observatory of society and consumption).

First, there is the Covid-19 epidemic. Characterized as “non-essential” activities, all suffered from having to keep the door closed. But the way out of the crisis appears even more violent. With inflation – which forces households to arbitrate their spending differently while imp…




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