At Lava, in Paris, “ceviche, this white fish dish, is made deep black here”

VSSome hike, others read. In his spare time, Wilfried Romain climbs volcanoes. The leader has a dozen climbs to his credit, including that of Mount Bromo, located in East Java. A memory engraved in black ink on his right bicep. “Chef in eruption », We can read in the Instagram biography of the chef who worked at Boragó, in Chile, one of the best restaurants in the world according to the 50 Best ranking. And for good reason: since March, alongside sommelier Rémi Badjoint, he has been the happy co-owner of Lava, in the 5^e district of Paris.

Both a restaurant and a wine bar, the address has as its common thread the volcanic universe, which is subtly alluded to in the plate, but also in the decor. The ashen front announces the color. Behind her, a large room furnished in black is revealed, soberly lit by a bright old parquet floor, a string of wall mirrors and discreet anthracite pendant lights.

On the left, a large dark zinc completes the picture. It was in Peruvian restaurants that Wilfried Romain discovered ceviche, this emblem of local street food, composed of fish cooked cold with the acidity of the traditional marinade that is leche de tigre. “I thought, like many French people, that it was just raw fish sprinkled with lemon,” admits the person concerned. Then came the idea of ​​what would later become his signature starter: “black ceviche”.

A taste from elsewhere

Faithful to the theme chosen by the chef, this white fish dish is made a deep black here. “I wanted the customer to be intrigued during the tasting, which is done almost blindly. » In a deep plate whose charcoal color and satin appearance evoke slate, the cook begins by pouring a rice cream with black sesame and miso – a soft and velvety beverage that should be savored until the last drop, even if it means asking for a second hot loaf of bread. You get to the heart of the matter – ceviche – once you have bitten into the squid ink tiles covering the center of the plate.

“ We chose an ikejime place [une technique d’abattage consistant à tuer l’animal sitôt pêché], that we dive into the leche de tigre, this lemony juice seasoned with chili pepper, garlic, ginger, coriander stems, lemongrass and fish stock. » Enough to give the iodized aromas released by the place of first freshness the exotic dimension dear to the “traveling cook”.

A taste from elsewhere, reinforced by a few grains of roasted black rice and a lemon marmalade with smoked chili pepper acting as mustard. “It’s the final touch, the one that gives the last kick,” concludes the chef in language betraying his participation in the show “Top Chef” (season 13).