Where’s the show at a fashion show? On the podium or around? The question resonated particularly during the Prada show, the highlight of fashion week held in Milan from June 17 to 21. In front of the Prada Foundation, hysterical fans behind barriers; inside, the number of guests, influencers or celebrities, is so important that you end up wondering where the attraction is. Is it a question of watching the boys parading in a paper decor or the spectators in designer shorts, bags and bucket hats? The confusion is all the more acute as the collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seems at times more sober than the sets of the public.
On Sonic Youth, we unearth an exercise in bare and geometric style: angular suits and ties, black leather shorts with double zip fly, checked tunics worn with triangle shopping bags, ankle boots with bent ends, gingham coats, acid knits striped or Mondrian style. All applauded by basketball player Dwyane Wade, actors Jeff Goldblum, Jake Gyllenhaal, and so many others, falling into the arms of designers behind the scenes.
Fame ? Donatella Versace knows. On uninhibited techno, she dresses post-adolescents in a tangy wardrobe between Antiquity and contemporary curiosities. Malabar pink or latex trench coat, swimmer’s swimsuit and openwork leather pants sit side by side with shirts with the heads of Greek statues and objects such as extracts from archaeological digs (urns and jars in their hands, saucer on the belt or as a buckle). ‘ear). Concession to the usual nepotism of fashion, fascinated by the sons and daughters of, the models are the descendants of ex-star models: Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen, Mark Vanderloo… But, when Donatella Versace comes to greet, the real star , it’s her.
Under the auspices of Harry Styles and Rembrandt
In the marriage of sape and sequins, Gucci goes even further: this season, Alessandro Michele draws Gucci Ha Ha Ha, a mini-collection of twenty-five silhouettes (in stores from October), in collaboration with Harry Styles, the 28-year-old singer-actor-darling of fashionistas with 45 million subscribers on Instagram. “Nothing marketing, but the fruit of an authentic friendship”, defends Michele, in his yellow gingham shirt covered with sheep and cherries, resulting from the project. Rather than branded merchandising, the designer and the star prefer high-flying suits, sequined sweaters and pajamas where a little sulky bear is acting up, or even a kilt, “for this eccentric English side that we love”.
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