Vthere is an ode to iodine with, on one side, pressed caviar and, on the other, bottarga. The match is lively between these two suitors at the Christmas table. But, basically, the scent does not matter, as long as it triggers marine intoxication. Review of two exceptional products with a strong – even very strong – personality!
Unlike classic caviar, the pressed concentrates several. Armen Petrossian from the famous Parisian house that bears his name has reinvented it by assembling different varieties of black gold. To not spoil the pleasure, it is priced less than the traditional (42 euros per box of 30 grams). No need to look for its composition, it is kept secret. Its dense and firm body which releases intense iodine notes can be appreciated in unusual and unconventional uses. The opportunity to taste it in a different register than natural coiled in a mother-of-pearl spoon or dressed on the back of the hand. A way to uninhibit the guests and to desecrate the ceremonial of its tasting.
So, what exactly do we do with pressed caviar at Christmas? Since it loves contrasts of flavors, we sprinkle it on scrambled eggs, we associate it with a cauliflower or celery soup, we combine it with crème fraîche or quite simply with bread… The advantages players will dare to take a bite of the caviar. We slide the pressed caviar sandwiched in breadcrumbs generously buttered beforehand and flanked by mozzarella ready to melt. We brown everything gently in a pan on both sides for osmosis to operate. Each bite makes you want to come back and bite into this regressive piece of bravery with infinite persistence on the palate.
Bottarga, Mediterranean caviar
Hey, speaking of persistence, bottarga – it is also called boutargue – is far from being outdone. Lovers of power, this product with the appearance of a flattened sausage divided into two parts is for you. Under its orange color, from clear to very bright – most of the time protected by a thin layer of natural beeswax -, hides a pouch of mullet eggs collected when the females are full. This new Mediterranean caviar (from 150 euros to 300 euros per kilo), an emblematic specialty of the town of Martigues in the Bouches-du-Rhône, is first salted and then dried. Depending on its ripening time, it displays a texture oscillating between the softness of a candied fruit paste and the dense character that we typically know.
On the palate, it’s a real iodine explosion. There are a thousand and one ways to enjoy this marine concentrate after grating it. As often, it is used as a condiment that goes wonderfully with pasta, risottos, an omelet, eggs mimosa, spleen potatoes. It can also be eaten pure in thin slices like sashimi, garnished with olive oil, placed on toasted bread. The best artisans in the field: Trikalinos, By Dehesa, So’Boutargue, Saveur des Calanques… When it comes time to decide between pressed caviar and bottarga for the end of year celebrations, the debates promise to be heated.
Our Christmas duels
Are you an oyster or a lobster?
Are you a flavored salmon or tarama?
Are you champagne or Christmas beer?
Are you a chicken or a capon?
Are you dauphine or mashed sweet potato?
Are you a foie gras in jelly or a vegetable pie?
Are you an ice cream log or a cream log?
Are you Sauternes or Sake?
Are you candied chestnuts on energy balls?
Are you Saint Môret or Brillat-Savarin truffle?
Are you toast or blinis?
Are you fond of bottarga or pressed caviar?
Are you a panettone or a log?
Are you a papillote or a chocolate truffle?
Are you petits fours or babka?
Are you whiskey or limoncello?