Fashion week: Milan revises its classics

How do you know that a fashion week is underway? In front of the places of the parades, a slew of black sedans create traffic jams, young people gather, hoping to see their idols of the moment, K-pop stars whose name will not mean anything to the over 30s. The autumn-winter 2023 men’s season, presented in Milan from January 13 to 17, was no exception to the rule.

Twenty-one fashion shows and more than thirty collection presentations punctuated these five days, with, as a general watchword, a celebration of the formal wardrobe, articulated around the great classics of men’s fashion, from suits to straight woolen coats, passing by well-polished leather shoes.

The most anticipated collection is undoubtedly that of the house of Gucci, which presented here its very first creations since the unexpected departure of its star artistic director, Alessandro Michele, in November 2022. Under his direction, Gucci had accustomed its public to a flood of bombastic prints, flashy colors and baroque inspirations. Imagined by the design studio, perhaps taken aback, this collection leaves room for simplicity. “She makes improvisation a methodology, a constructive creative tool. A practice used in theater and music, improvisation is based on the know-how of the professional.details, not without humor, a press release.

It was a white T-shirt associated with beige pleated trousers that started the ball rolling, followed by large, perfectly tailored wool coats, small striped polo shirts, a sailor top worn with jeans, suits whose sleeves removable jackets, or even short jackets in smooth leather with accentuated shoulders. Some pieces are immediately desirable, such as loose blazers or fine knit sweaters. This transitional season offers a pause, no doubt salutary, to welcome the revival of Gucci.

Dolce & Gabbana, which is usually never afraid to do too much, has also turned this season to a form of classicism. Make way for the rigor of black and the excellence of tailoring. “This collection is called ‘Essenza’, because we wanted to get back to the very essence of Dolce & Gabbana. We wanted to show what we really are by taking everything off, a way to expose ourselves. It is not a minimal collection, but it is very simple”, explain Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce. The look is serious: the suits are impeccably tailored, whether very close to the body or looser, coats in woolen cloth accompany white shirts associated with fine ties. But Dolce & Gabbana would not be Dolce & Gabbana without a zest of sensuality: harnesses, sheaths, transparencies highlight the muscles and the tan of the house ephebes.

Formal, for Silvia Venturini Fendi, comes first and foremost through comfort. “This collection is a reflection on contrasts. I wanted it to be super chic, but also very relaxed, to feel comfortable with great sophistication,” explains the artistic director. Served by high-end materials (cashmere, mohair, dipped lambskin), it projects an elegant and comfortable man in his clothes.

We find large reversible cape coats, simple cashmere T-shirts, small hand-painted shearling jackets, long and large scarves going down the leg, but also soft suits. An umbrella case in the shape of a baguette is worn on the back, while another protrudes from a shopping bag: “I wanted a bit of irony, the French will like it! »laughs Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The functional in the first line

There’s that same feeling of comfort at Emporio Armani, the house’s line aimed at a younger clientele. King of the formal men’s wardrobe, Giorgio Armani celebrated it this season through the look of the aviators of the 1930s. Hats surmounted by round glasses set the tone from the very first silhouettes. Very rich (101 silhouettes), the collection oscillates between an adventurous spirit – small jackets, large utilitarian boots, long coats with Prince of Wales checks… – and a more sporty look with down jackets or mountain boots.

For his eponymous label, Giorgio Armani has achieved what he knows how to do best, namely a wardrobe stripped of the superfluous: three-piece suits, fitted blazers, cargo or flowing trousers, cashmere and alpaca coats. A functional collection, served by greys, beiges and midnight blues. At 88, Giorgio Armani continues to hold his line.

At Prada, it is also time for a reality check on the function of clothing. “As designers, we are very aware of what is happening in the world. It’s a complicated moment and we are reacting to it. The most honest thing we can do is create something useful for people today.”, explains Miuccia Prada. The winter she imagines in collaboration with the Belgian Raf Simons goes back to basics: fitted suits, protective coats, comforting jackets, moccasins with thick soles.

But Prada always takes a step to the side: mohair collars escape from jackets, a white tank top is cut in a puffer-style fabric, the volume of bomber jackets is exaggerated, the hood of a duffle coat looks puffy. The games of proportions are, as always, perfectly executed.

The Tod’s house offers here a desirable wardrobe, articulated around beautiful pieces of classic craftsmanship. “ I wanted to get back to basics, stripping down as much as possible. There are no frills. It’s a good time to return to some form of elegance. Younger generations are also in demand”, explains creative director Walter Chiapponi. This translates into a trench coat paired with simple white trousers, little black ankle boots, suede jackets or fine knit sweaters, all in the perfect autumnal palette.

At Etro, which presented here its first men’s collection designed by Marco De Vincenzo, the classic takes on a particular dimension: if the pieces are indeed formal in their execution – the seventies-inspired suits are well constructed, the coats in woolen cloth fall just, the thick knit is especially appealing… – they are adorned with warm colors or psychedelic prints.

Finally, at Zegna, Alessandro Sartori paid homage to cashmere, which makes up the majority of silhouettes. Soft coats, loose jackets and trousers worn low on the hips give the look a nonchalant elegance. This season in Milan confirms the decline of sportswear, which has monopolized the catwalks in recent years. Here, few trainers or sweatshirts in sight; a welcome change of style.