The fall-winter 2024-2025 men’s collection weeks ended in Paris on January 21. Between new masculinities, timeless suits and a slew of pieces favoring sobriety, men will have something to re-enchant their wardrobe. A quick overview of the strong trends spotted in Milan and Paris.
Layering livens up the season
It’s a well-known gimmick for those who are cold: stacking layers of clothing to better cope with the cold. This season, we find this tip in many collections, always with elegance and efficiency. At Lemaire, where everything is played out in dark shades, a lined coat is added to a small jacket with patch pockets, which itself covers a blouse. At Issey Miyake, on the other hand, we play with mixing colors for a very convincing result, while AMI offers an evening version of layering, with a straight coat, a suit and knitwear next to the skin.
Glitter is cool
The new man no longer hesitates to take on originally feminine attributes. Glitter and sequins also adorn her outfits, both evening and day. In a total look at Dior, embroidered style at Emporio Armani or even on a coat with a large collar like tuxedos at Dolce & Gabbana. Elegant and avant-garde.
Workwear gets to work
A strong trend of the season, workwear – elements reminiscent of workers’ work clothes – was widely represented on the catwalks. At Auralee, a young Japanese brand, it takes the form of a jacket and pants set with patch pockets, from which work gloves protrude. At Fendi, we also find a beige work jacket, while at Yohji Yamamoto the workwear is more discreet: we spot it on a tab, sewn on the shoulders of a jacket. Originally, this was used to hold workers’ bags in place.
The revisited suit carves out its place
An essential part of the men’s wardrobe, the suit has carved out a nice place for itself in the collections. At Prada, it is accompanied by a tie and comes in thick herringbone wool or in black, close-fitting versions. Israeli designer Hed Mayner plays on volumes this season and accentuates the sleeves and legs, while Pharrell Williams, at Louis Vuitton, offers Wild West-style suits, with a jewel as a tie.
How I love your chocolate color
This season, solid colors are much more present than prints. If green or burgundy do well, it is the chocolate brown color that stands out. In total look, most often. From the bag to the shoes, including the bomber jacket at Officine générale, on a wide pants and zipped jacket set at Bluemarble, or even on a long sleeveless coat shaped like a jacket at Gucci.