The XXL summer is over. With the beginning of autumn, the well-deserved hibernation is due for many convertibles, oldtimers and youngtimers. Wet, damp leaves and sometimes even salt on the streets can certainly affect the aged sheet metal. Even if the vehicle is already being cared for, some additional preparations should be made before mothballing.
Before mothballing in a dry garage, the vehicle needs to be cleaned. In the car wash (rather not for vintage convertibles), a program with underbody washing is recommended. On the other hand, if you want to clean it yourself with a high-pressure cleaner, you should keep the nozzle at least half a meter away, among other things to protect rubber seals. It is best to have the engine professionally cleaned. Otherwise, areas such as the engine control, alternator and ignition coil should ideally be taped off before steam blasting the engine compartment so that they do not come into contact with water. Attention: If an engine is cleaned with water, oil and grease will be washed away. Therefore, according to the law, a water-intensive engine wash must be carried out in a special place with an oil separator. If the engine is cleaned in the front yard, severe penalties are threatened. First, the passenger compartment and trunk are thoroughly vacuumed, since dirt attracts moisture, which can provoke rust as well as unsightly odors. If you have leather upholstery, these should then be treated with an appropriate care product. It is advisable to replace a pollen filter to prevent mold. Good ventilation of the interior serves the same purpose. That’s why the side windows should ideally remain open a bit during hibernation. Thorough cleaning of the soft top with soapy water is also worthwhile on convertibles. It then also remains slightly open to protect the fabric and the soft top mechanism. Hinges can be sprayed with oil or grease, seals and other rubber parts rubbed with vaseline or talcum powder to keep them supple. It is advisable to change the engine oil so that old airborne particles do not form acids that can damage the unit. Then the oil level in the gearbox and in the rear axle differential, if present, is checked, which is often forgotten in vintage cars. It is also advisable to park the car with a full tank. If there is a lot of air in the tank, condensation can form, which leads to corrosion in metal tanks. Special fuel additives also help to prevent tank rust. Incidentally, since the mid-1980s most cars have had plastic tanks, so it doesn’t matter how full the tank is. Not to be forgotten are the windshield wiper system and cooling water; Antifreeze prevents freezing here. The windshield wipers are folded down so that the lips do not flatten. It is also important to keep the starter battery fit. It is advisable to remove it from older cars, but modern vehicles without a power supply can have problems with the electronics. If the vehicle is parked for a longer period of time, the state of charge is obtained using a suitable device. We recommend increasing the pressure to 2.5 to 3 bar for the tires while they are parked. Regularly pushing the vehicle back and forth prevents flat tires and distributes oil and grease in gears and shafts. In modern cars, it is also worth turning on the air conditioning briefly with the engine running to lubricate the compressor. Every few years, classic car owners should also carefully examine the cavity seal. This applies in particular to cars with a self-supporting body, i.e. especially to post-war models. But older vehicles with a frame design also have cavities. The seal must be undamaged and intact, otherwise there is a risk of corrosion and expensive repairs. The ideal place for the car to hibernate is a dry and well-ventilated garage or hall. Only a registered car may be parked on public roads, and the license plate must always be visible. Otherwise the vehicle may be towed. (SPX)
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