A star caused a big bang in the universe of Claire Vallée. In January 2021, the Michelin Guide distinguished its restaurant, ONA (for “non-animal origin”), a world first for a vegan address. The chef and founder of this 30-seat establishment created in Arès, in Gironde, near the Arcachon basin, was immediately embarked on a marathon of interviews, attracting the attention of the New York Times and Japanese newspapers.
The photogenic forty-something willingly lent herself to the staging, going so far as to pose in stiletto heels, sitting in a pot, surrounded by cucurbits. And unwittingly becoming the smiling face of veganism. At the same time, she began an overhaul of her dining room and kitchens, swapping her decoration made from recycled objects for other recycled objects… designed by designers. The business manager was also forced to hire more staff to meet the requirements of a star, not without difficulties, especially because of the health crisis. But on the fundamentals, the quadra has remained upright in its eco-responsible boots: vegetal, seasonal and joyfully experimental cuisine.
The press has finally said little about his gourmet inventions. It is rather the atypical career of this autodidact, native of Nancy, who came to the kitchen after obtaining a doctorate in archeology, which seduced the media. And especially his choice of plants after a trip to Thailand in 2013. In France, where only 2.2% of the population does not eat meat (according to a study conducted for FranceAgriMer by IFOP in 2020 on a sample of 15 001 people), the choice seems bizarre at best, provocative at worst. And Claire Vallée, from interview to interview, had above all to justify herself on her lifestyle and diet. An exercise all the more painful as this free electron does not see herself as a vegan activist, and even occasionally eats fish. One year after its Michelin distinction, it was time to get back to the heart of its tasty dishes.
Has the Michelin star changed the way you work?
We had to adapt to a new clientele, increase the number of dishes on the menu and expand our team to adapt to the requirements of a gourmet restaurant. I was advised to create a second address in Paris, but the recruitment problems in Arès are already exhausting me. Many employees no longer want to work because of the Covid-19, others leave for no reason. Despite the help of a specialized firm, I find it difficult to complete my team. Some days, due to lack of staff, I have to cancel reservations at the last minute, which infuriates some customers. It’s hard. I had depression and lost about 400 covers last year.
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