VSFaced with the ecological imperative, the textile and fashion sector must today engage in multiple reforms, under regulatory and legislative pressure from public authorities, both at national and European level. But, at a time when everything must be counted to be considered seriously, it is a question of knowing which figures to rely on to move forward. We are thus observing a silent data battle that involves all stakeholders.
Thus, environmental impact data by product, which determines the terms of environmental display soon to be deployed in France and Europe, constitutes a headache for public authorities and businesses alike. This applies to the carbon footprint, but also to water pollution or the impact on biodiversity.
The legitimacy of the figures depends on the precision of the measurement as well as the way in which the results are aggregated in the summary ratings. It is necessary that the French databases and the base referenced by the European Commission be perfectly homogeneous. It is also imperative to simultaneously take into consideration the social conditions of production, which, in the minds of consumers, are inseparable from environmental conditions.
“Emotional” sustainability
Many other subjects are controversial. For example, the durability of clothing, often reduced to their physical resistance on the grounds that only this lends itself to measurement. However, it is established that it only partially conditions their lifespan, as recalled by a recent report from the European Parliament, which highlights “emotional” sustainability, that is to say the attention paid to clothes that you want to keep for a long time. Without tangible data, how can we understand it and not actually sanction clothing that aspires to a long lifespan through delicacy and not through solidity?
It is a chase which is now engaged around criteria such as the cost of repair compared to the selling price, the frequency of promotions which accelerates the renewal of products, or even the size of the series (small series preserving the virtues of craftsmanship and exceptional know-how). It is also important to objectively evaluate the quality of materials and tailoring, which gives meaning to the garment and makes it long-lasting, whereas only the impact of the materials is currently taken into account.
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