It’s one of the most anticipated fashion shows of the upcoming Milan fashion week. Matthieu Blazy will present, on Saturday September 24 at 8 p.m., his second collection as artistic director of the Italian brand Bottega Veneta. In February, for his first show, he left his audience under the spell of a sharp proposal, respectful of the past and stuffed with clothes and accessories of deceptively classic beauty.
In one collection, he had succeeded in renewing the expression of the house’s signature braided leather, the Intreccio, in the form of small pumped-up bags or spectacular thigh-high boots. And to make subtle and generous allusions to the work of these predecessors: Tomas Maier, who held the creative reins of the brand from 2001 to 2018, but also Daniel Lee. The latter abruptly left the label in November 2021, after having put it back on the rails of modernity for three years by releasing shoes and bags that are champions of sales and press releases, popularizing an essential apple green and a thousand times copied and assuming an original communication, which notably consisted of removing Bottega Veneta from social networks.
On February 26, Matthieu Blazy also knew how to master the dramaturgy of a show that opened with a basic-looking silhouette (a white tank top placed on blue leather pants that had undergone a very special finish to look like jeans) and which grew in power and sophistication over the passages, declining a sort of efficient and ideal contemporary wardrobe, for men and women, good chic, good glam, for the bourgeois as for the eccentric, from day to night.
The aesthetic and commercial power of this opus was felt in the room to the palpable excitement of certain buyers… Less thrilled, the Italian journalist from Tea Business of FashionAngelo Flaccavento, nevertheless recognized that “the elegance and refinement were tangible and promising, and [que] this [n’était] only a beginning”.
Attacking men’s fashion
It must be said that, at 38, Matthieu Blazy has already rolled his bump. Not just anywhere or with anyone. The Franco-Belgian designer went through Maison Martin Margiela. We are at the end of 2011 and, at the time, he comes to take care of the Artisanal collection, a sort of experimental line (which will parade in the spring-summer 2013 haute couture calendar), where recycling and diversion are law, while Demna Gvasalia (who has since become the DA star of Balenciaga) takes care of the main line.
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