LThe night train is on the rise. After the Paris-Venice-Milan or the Paris-Briançon and Paris-Tarbes-Lourdes lines, the SNCF, the ÖBB (its Austrian equivalent) and the DB (Deutsche Bahn, the German national company) celebrated, on December 14, entry into Paris-Est station of the first Vienna-Paris night train, called “Nightjet”, which left the Austrian capital the day before at 7.40 p.m.
The interest is twofold: to link the two European capitals by promising several stopover cities a direct route. Three round trips each week: Tuesday, Friday and Sunday in the direction France-Austria and Monday, Thursday and Saturday in the other direction. The train stops seven or eight times (depending on the direction of travel) between Paris and Vienna. But also save on CO emissions2. SNCF explains that each passenger saves 400 kg compared to the plane. And knowing that the night train can accommodate 360 passengers, a total of 144 tonnes of CO2 that are not spent.
Is it still necessary that the service is up to the stake? For it, Point went to test this line, in the Paris-Vienna direction, on Friday December 17th. The traffic at the Paris-Est station is rather dense that evening. To access the TGV which serves Strasbourg, it is necessary to show your health pass. Our train is waiting for us at platform number 7, where no one controls the comings and goings. So we find ourselves looking for our sleeper car all alone.
We travel in one of the train’s two sleeping cars. It is a triple cabin with a sink. A shared shower is at the end of the corridor. It is not separate from the toilet. A hostess finally welcomes us and offers us a small bottle of Austrian sparkling wine as a welcome gift. Faced with our astonishment at the label, she gives us an anecdote which, with hindsight, should have put us in our ears as to the quality of the trip: “This wine is very good, I often cook with it. “
A succession of dysfunctions
Because, unfortunately, a succession of hiccups and incidents will punctuate the trip and somewhat spoil the experience. A few minutes after our installation, we learn that our place has been sold twice: once by the SNCF (ours) and once by the Austrian company. First come, first served, we can stay in our place. Phew. In the same car, another passenger is much less lucky, his bed is broken.
We share the cabin with a Frenchman who works in Vienna and who travels regularly between the two cities. Two in a cabin for three, we enjoy a certain comfort. But it’s hard to imagine the situation at full capacity. Especially since the cabins are only equipped with two power outlets… and are devoid of wi-fi.
The train leaves 7 minutes late, which is not much on a journey of almost fourteen hours. We take a look at the menu, which offers hot dishes, but also snacks and drinks. Second blow for evening passengers: impossible to pay by credit card, because the payment terminal is not working.
Luckily, our cabin mate agreed to advance us a few euros in cash. To give a little local flavor to this trip to the East, we choose a Frankfurt sausage. The hostess takes our order and returns a few moments later to tell us that they are out of stock. Too bad for the local, we fall back on spaghetti bolognese.
Arrive the plates. The hostess, who has noticed our amazement, asks us what’s going on. “We don’t see the bolognese sauce, are you sure these are our dishes?” We ask. Indeed, the spaghetti (reheated) is only embellished with a sprig of thyme and two cherry tomatoes. “We always serve them like that”, replies the hostess. After all, let’s think about it, the food served on planes is hardly more cheerful …
Correct bedding and muscular wake-up call
Midnight is approaching and we will soon be leaving France for Germany. It is also time to go to bed. A good point, the bedding is quite correct and even comfortable if you are not more than 1.90 m tall. Lulled by the sound of the train, we dive into the land of dreams. This trip will be short, around one in the morning, the heavy hand of the German railway police comes to wake up each cabin. Identity check: we all have to present our passports or identity cards which are then photographed.
After these adventures, the night offers us a respite from unpleasant surprises. Upon awakening, the breakfast is of a very modest quality and frankly disappointing considering the price of the ticket. Because it will have been necessary to pay 204.90 euros for a one-way ticket. A fairly substantial price which therefore only offers a coffee, a carton of orange juice, two rolls (not fresh) and two extras (jam, ham, butter or margarine). And if you want an extra small jar of jam, it will cost you 1.20 euro. Many passengers ignore the shared shower where hygiene clearly leaves much to be desired. The arrival is finally two minutes late in Vienna, but has the advantage of being immediately in the heart of the Austrian capital to which is added the satisfaction of knowing that the trip is finally over.
To conclude, if the intention of the French, German and Austrian rail services was to protect the planet by encouraging travelers to prefer the train to the plane, for the moment, it has failed. Let’s bet that it is above all about bad settings and that the service will improve in quality in the weeks to come; it is an imperative for the survival of this line. Our cabin neighbor is much less magnanimous: “the Paris-Vienna night train, never again”, he confides to us as he leaves us.
Paris-Vienne night train: from 29.90 euros in a seated car with 6-seat cabins without bed; from 59.90 euros in a sleeper car with 4 to 6 people per cabin; from 89.90 euros in a sleeping car with single, double or triple compartment. Reservations on the SNCF or OBB website.
Vienna in three appointments thanks to its tourist office:
– A visit to the Albertina museum (first district), in the palace of the same name, where there is a magnificent exhibition dedicated to Modigliani (until January 9).
– A hotel to stay in: one of the 49 rooms of the Joséfine hotel (sixth arrondissement). There is the oldest American bar in town, A must-see!
– A gourmet break at Bitzinger, Vienna’s cult sausage stand, right in the city center.
More information on: https: //www.austria.info/en