“The clothes are beautiful like a dream, but you can project yourself into them. » This compliment is signed Victoria Beckham, who made the round trip from London to attend the Jacquemus fashion show, Monday June 27 in Salin-de-Giraud (Bouches-du-Rhône), a village specializing in the exploitation of salt , located southeast of the Camargue delta, 40 km from Arles. A priori, not the kind of place where one expects to cross the ex-Spice Girls.
To present his new men’s and women’s fall-winter 2022-2023 collection, Simon Porte Jacquemus wanted to reconnect with his native South, but “without falling into the cliché of the sea, the beach, the field”. And, indeed, the saline reserve in which he organized his show was nothing like a Provençal postcard: the heart of the mountain of salt was terraced to create a large flat surface, bleachers were carved there to seat the guests, a route has been traced so that the 70 models emerge from the peaks and descend gently towards the public. “We have moved 180,000 tonnes of salt in the past month”, explains Simon Porte Jacquemus. The result is worthy of the efforts made: in this crater cut off from the world, the unusual landscape is divided between the blue of the sky and the white of the salt. Jacquemus proves that he has not lost his talent for striking staging, like the fuchsia carpet rolled out in a lavender field in June 2019 or the parade in the wheat fields of the Oise just after the end of the first confinement, in the summer of 2020.
Winks at the wedding night
The cosmic setting serves as the setting for an accomplished collection, more sophisticated than the latest productions. Inspired by the rigor and stripping of Giacometti’s sculptures, Simon Porte Jacquemus offers monochrome silhouettes, often white, ivory or black. The short dresses seem to have just been unfolded and keep the furrows that structure them; from a draped bodice escape two long sections of white cotton which float in the open air like sheets drying on a thread; the linen of the raw-edged jackets rolls up and reveals the bare shoulders. In this sober and sensual wardrobe, there are references to marriage, or even to the wedding night: immaculate veils are sewn on the back of polo shirts (for girls and boys) or escape from the slit of a long dress in mesh. Pillows serve as capes, down jackets with blue and white stripes merge with pajamas. The silhouettes alternate between softness and transparency, softness and sensuality.
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