In the quiet entrenchments of the 9e district of Paris, below the hectic avenue Trudaine and the shopping street of the Martyrs, Caillebotte remains imperturbably present. Not the impressionist painter, but the restaurant opened in 2013 by Franck Baranger, chef already at the origin of the delicious bistro Le Pantruche, located a few streets above.
the serial Chef is such a reference that his restaurants are part of the lists shared between gourmets: the Coucou café-restaurant, Belle Maison, specializing in fish, and Café Mirette, at the Pernod Ricard Foundation … But, for the rest, they no longer describe neither the dishes nor the service. It is accepted that in Franck Baranger’s addresses swooning competes with discretion.
Sheer delicacy
The pleasure remains the same, therefore, when the Caillebotte door opens onto a decor that is as bright and promising as ever. The slate written that very morning announces a menu whose products resonate with the end of summer. Many come from the Paris region, transported by Boots in the City, an ethical and practical supplier of fruit and vegetables. Chefs order two mornings a week, picking is done in the afternoon and delivered the next morning. From picker to maker, only one night passes, one dream. We can’t wait to taste the roasted guinea fowl or the catch of the day.
A low-temperature roasted guinea fowl and a cream of cauliflower proclaim the obviousness of the regressive dish.
Julie, the very kind waitress, is responsible for spreading the word to “Zach ‘”, or Zacharie Portal, the executive chef of all the above-mentioned addresses, in repair today at Caillebotte. The hake is all wrapped in pink radishes, flower petals and wild weeds. Its skin is crisp, its flesh melts like that of the eggplant that accompanies it.
Placed on the fish, a brunoise of small white elements is at first indefinable. Funny, it rolls on the tongue like a tabbouleh pearl of fresh crushed almonds. But, no, it’s more complicated than that. On reflection, it’s cauliflower cut into tiny cubes mixed with white sesame seeds and a hint of honey… acacia, maybe?
A diaphanous delicacy that gives food for thought and discussion as on the other side of the table a low-temperature roasted guinea fowl and a cream of cauliflower (which put us on the trail of “nothing is lost, everything is transformed De la brunoise) proclaim the obviousness of the regressive dish.
From the title, the dessert is against the tide. It is for this reason that it is on the table. The pan-fried cherries have lost their acidity, a hint of which is however revealed in the frozen pistachio yogurt. But the walnut immediately claims its characteristic sweetness. Supported by a vanilla cream, it undoubtedly wins the game of comfort against the wacky and once again allows Franck Baranger to be included in the “safe bet” chapter.
The address Curd, 8, rue Hyppolyte-Lebas, Paris 9e. Phone. : 01-53-20-88-70. Open Monday to Saturday, 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
The essential dish Roasted guinea fowl with cauliflower cream.
The detail that is not a detail The frequency of deliveries is reduced to lower the restaurant’s carbon impact.
The bill Around 30 €.
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