Sewing overall: Instructions from Guido Maria Kretschmer

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manual

Designer for everyone
Guido shows you how to sew his overalls

© Keith Schofield / Guido

Casual, versatile and really chic – this overall leaves nothing to be desired. Is also a real Guido. And you can sew his exclusive design yourself – if you are not a beginner with needle, thread and machine.

You need:

  • 2 m outer fabric (e.g. flowing crepe)
  • 1 m of soft fake velor
  • 10 m color-matching edging tape
  • 1 button
  • approx. 2 m insert (as a contrasting material on the pockets and to reinforce the front edge)
  • Sewing thread for sewing machine and overlock

That’s how it’s done:

  1. Cut the pattern from the respective outer fabric.
  2. Neaten the edges of the trouser cut parts completely with the overlock sewing machine. Do not pull out the edges.
  3. Rush fake velor semicircle at the pocket openings. Carefully cut the seam allowance up to the seam and iron it flat (do not iron the velor too warm). Sew on the inner trim and topstitch with narrow edges.
  4. Sew the pocket bag into the front of the pants and pin it at the top of the waistband. Neaten edges with overlock. Take hold of the pocket bag together with the trim to fix the pocket bag.
  5. Sew the outer and inner seams of the trousers and iron the seams apart.
  6. Close the crotch seam of the trousers and iron them apart in the upper half.
  7. Neaten the sleeves with the overlock and close the seam afterwards. Iron the seam apart. Overcast and fold the hem and sew up blindly from the inside with witch stitches or
  8. sew around with a stitch that is visible from the outside.
  9. Glue the fake velor with an insert, rush to the front edge and iron it apart.
  10. Close the side seam with a French seam (seam allowance 1.5 cm).
  11. Close the shoulder seam and overcast with the overlock.
  12. Insert sleeves and overlock both seam allowances together.
  13. Turn the belt over and iron it flat. Do not iron directly on the velor with the iron, but place a cloth in between and do not set the iron too hot.
  14. Stitch down the velor waistband on the right and left. Close the crepe band in a circle, overcast and iron it apart. Then, starting from the seam, pin the velor collar onto the crepe collar. The velor waistband is shorter.
  15. Edge the olive in the center back.
  16. Neaten the trim (stuck with insert) on the upper part with the edging tape and sew it onto the upper part. Iron over and sew the seam allowances onto the trim with narrow edges. Stitch down the trim in the seam shadow from the outside.
  17. Connect the waistband with the upper and lower part. Adhere to the overlapping upper part. Distribute most of the oversize near the side seam.
  18. Neaten the top and bottom edge of the waistband with the overlock.
  19. Adjust the trouser hem length or sew around with a fold-over or turn-over either invisibly or with a visible quilting from the outside.

Guido’s special tip
You can also use wonderfully light denim or flowing viscose for the overall.

Download: Parts overview of the overalls

And here the pattern for download:

If you’re not sure what size you are, measure yourself. The table shows which one is right for your measurements.

Size chart for download.

This article originally appeared in Guido issue 03/2020.

Guido

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