In the suburbs, good addresses that allow you to eat in the open air are legion. From Youpi to the theatre, the fabulous canteen installed in summer under the awning of the Théâtre de Gennevilliers, at Villa9Trois and its charming tables in Montreuil. In Paris, in the wake of the Covid, the streets have been permanently adorned with summer terraces which can flourish on the macadam of 1er April to October 31. However, achieving the terrace, quiet street and good meal combo is still not easy. Here is a selection of very recommendable tables where you can enjoy the caress of the sun, and even hear your neighbor on the plate.
Fulgurances L’Entrepôt, dishes under the plane trees
L’Entrepôt is a Swiss knife place. This former printing works now includes a gallery, a concert hall, an arthouse cinema and a large restaurant (130 seats) sheltered by an oversized glass roof. In summer, a terrace, protected by plane trees and a partition punctuated with emerald green ceramics, invites indulgence and sunburn. Three years ago, the happy team of Fulgurances (three establishments in Paris and one in New York) took over the restaurant, and the plates systematically return empty to the kitchen. At lunchtime, William Cottier performs small miracles (menu from 21 euros) by focusing on seasonal products.
The 36-year-old chef has a predilection for fried foods, homemade oils and vinegars. And we find ourselves baba in front of new onions in tempura, absolutely not greasy, assisted by a mayonnaise flavored with oil smoked with hay, and oysters in shiso vinegar (whose leaf is widely used in Japanese cuisine ). In the evening, William Cottier and his brigade assist resident chefs: the philosophy of Fulgurances is indeed to highlight young talents who are already well honed. The latest, chef Reece Moore, originally from Australia, has concocted a menu full of relief for the summer, and at a fair price (42 euros). We were able to test a very mustard veal tartare, a pigeon decorated with a tarragon mayonnaise, a sorrel sorbet and raspberry coulis. Frank tastes, but controlled. And we also leave, leaving the plate carefully cleaned.
Aglio e Olio, the kitchen of the mamma
Friends of the land, of the kitchen without fuss and simmered dishes whose cooking extends over several days (yes, yes), you have found your new HQ. The Italian establishment Aglio e Olio and the French restaurant Massale, neighbors, were both created by the smiling Thomas Chapelle, who dispenses his wise advice from table to table. Aglio e Olio is its latest creation: accessible (lunch menu from 18 euros; evening menu from 45 euros) while remaining respectful of products and tradition. Not insignificant asset, in summer it spreads about thirty covers in front of the restaurant, installed in a quiet street.
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