The Chinese platform Temu, non-existent two years ago, is a hit thanks to its low prices, but is accused of achieving this by pushing for overconsumption and thanks to questionable working conditions (AFP/Archives/Stefani Reynolds)
The Chinese platform Temu, non-existent two years ago, is a hit thanks to its low prices, but is accused of achieving this by pushing for overconsumption and thanks to questionable working conditions.
“Besides, Amazon, they are altar boys”, summarizes for AFP Valérie Fayard, deputy general director of Emmaüs France and spokesperson for the Stop fast-fashion collective.
If his compatriot Shein confines himself to fashion, Temu hunts on the lands of the American giant, with a plethora of products: clothing, toys, decoration, tools, high-tech…
For example, it offers 7,500 references of wireless headsets, from 1.50 euros to 66 euros.
Launched in September 2022 in the United States, Temu has activities in 59 countries including France, the platform tells AFP.
Temu is the international version of the Chinese e-commerce juggernaut Pinduoduo, born in 2015 and whose financial results increased in 2023.
In France, Temu was 7th in the ranking of the most visited merchant sites and applications in the 4th quarter of 2023 (+4 places compared to the previous quarter), according to Médiamétrie and the Federation of e-commerce and distance selling (Fevad), with 17.4 million unique visitors per month (2.2 million per day).
A general platform, but which also sells colossal volumes of clothing at low prices, Temu nevertheless refuses the “fast-fashion” label.
It presents itself to AFP as “a +marketplace+ (editor’s note) which puts consumers in direct contact with manufacturers”.
It explains that it contains its prices and its carbon emissions by avoiding “unnecessary steps (…) of transport, handling and storage”.
In fact, Temu manufactures and ships its products directly from China, unlike Amazon, which relies on its regional distribution centers, explained to AFP in 2023 Sheng Lu, professor of fashion studies at American University of Delaware.
But for Valérie Fayard of Stop fast-fashion, the prices of Temu, which produces “in frightening environmental and social conditions”, result from less acceptable practices.
In 2023, the American Congress highlighted the “extremely high risk” of “forced labor” of Uyghurs among its suppliers. “We strictly prohibit the use of involuntary labor by our (…) partners,” Temu responds to AFP.
She is also accused of using dangerous components. The European Toy Industries Federation (TIE), which purchased 19 toys from Temu, noted in February that “none complied with European regulations”.
On this point, the platform claims to “control sellers and products”, in particular by carrying out “random checks”. “Violations may result in warnings, penalties, product delisting, account closure, or even referral to regulatory authorities in cases of serious or repeated violations,” says Temu.
In France, the Fraud Repression launched an investigation into fast fashion at the end of 2023, the conclusions of which are expected in mid-2024.
Temu’s expansion could also be thwarted by the proposed law on “fast fashion”, adopted by the National Assembly in March, which prohibits advertising and provides for an increased environmental penalty.
Questioned by AFP, the company “recognizes the significant environmental concerns addressed”, without commenting on these measures.
– “Ultra aggressive marketing” –
MP Anne-Cécile Violland (Horizons), at the origin of the text and who had invited all the targeted groups (H&M, Inditex, Primark, Shein), told AFP that Temu was the only one not to have responded.
Temu’s marketing is also worrying. Targeting a young clientele, fans of social networks, in 2023 it was the leading advertiser on Meta (Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp) and one of the top five on Google, according to the Wall Street Journal.
Anne-Cécile Violland denounces “ultra aggressive marketing”, targeting “thanks to artificial intelligence young people who want to change their clothes often and wear models inspired by brands”.
According to Sheng Lu, Temu relies on artificial intelligence (AI) and the study of data to “better understand the habits and lifestyles of consumers and thus adapt to demand”.
Valérie Fayard accuses the application of “encouraging addiction by using gambling codes”, with its roulettes and slot machines offering discounts.
Temu recently offered its French customers the chance to buy their data for life, which is illegal, for a prize pool of 100 euros. The offer was withdrawn.
© 2024 AFP
Did you like this article ? Share it with your friends using the buttons below.
