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Cronyism, disproportionate ego of chefs, race for stars, mafia… Valerio Massimo Visintin denounces, in a book, the turpitudes of transalpine restaurants.
From our correspondent in Italy Quentin Raverdy
Published on
Lhe title says it all. And from the cover of Dietro le stelle – Il lato oscuro della ristorazione italiana (behind the stars: the dark side of Italian catering, ed. Mondadori, untranslated) the tone is set. If the author, Valerio Massimo Visintin, has been handling the art of food criticism for three decades, the journalist also knows how to cut to the chase.
And in his last work, the pen of the Corriere della sera did not hesitate to do so, shining a furious spotlight on the not always brilliant back kitchens of transalpine gastronomy, sparing none of its actors.
Starting with his critical colleagues, the main target of the one hundred and fifty pages of his caustic inventory à la Prévert. Having a Visintin book in your hands “always gives…
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