Every Friday, a gastronomy actor entrusts his favorite addresses in the capital. This week, the turn of pastry chef Christelle Brua.
By Laurence Gounel
© KHOROSHAYEV DMYTRO
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VSA cook by training, who became a pastry chef and passed through the starred brigades of Arnsbourg, in Alsace, and Pré Catelan, in Paris, Christelle Brua has multiplied the rewards. Voted best restaurant pastry chef in the world in 2018 and pastry chef of the year three times, she moved to the Élysée Palace until last August. With a predilection for pods: “If I could have spent my time at the chocolate factory, I would have. To the point of deciding to inaugurate on April 3, rue du Cherche-Midi, in the 6e, her own shop, called Madame Cacao. She summons her childhood memories, reconciles quality and creativity. “I wanted to add a part of wonder to excellence », assuming the aesthetics of a playful, regressive and cheerful chocolate. With the only pastry being a soft and melting chocolate tart. When she’s not in her lab, she relies on the Instagram account The Ultimate Guide to go out to feast with Lucien, her 10-year-old son, who is very greedy.
His bakery: Poilane
“This is the historic store and I go there three times a week. Especially on Wednesdays, with my son, before his rugby training. We come to get a piece of flan. It reminds me of the one my grandmother made: very thick, with a very supple center and a very thin, crispy dough. It is the ideal marriage of textures. »
8, rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6e. From €2.90 per individual share. READ ALSOTaste of Paris – What is the Doyenné, the restaurant that is driving culinary guides crazy about? His favorite table: mano
“I like this address in the image of its chef, Maximilien Kuzniar, lively, cheerful, radiant. He sits down, we talk, he makes me taste things and goes back to the kitchen. I like this exchange… and his ceviche which he serves with his sauce Leche del Tigre, made with coconut milk, basil and lime. It’s fresh and prepares the palate for what’s to come. Another must-have? Its brookie. A mixture of cookie and brownie that he works like a Snickers, with a runny caramel and salted butter. It’s to die for. »
46, rue de l’Ancienne-Mairie, Boulogne-Billancourt (Hauts-de-Seine). From €25 for the lunch menu.
His bistro: Baca’v
“Émile Cotte, whom I met at Le Pré Catelan, is a former restaurant manager at Les 110 Taillevent. In his bistro address, he pushes more comfort with classics that he dusts off. I am thinking of this Cardinal vol-au-vent which combines poultry, truffles and lobster. A hearty and gourmet “land and sea”. Same treat with his pie, which he changes with the seasons. The crust is thin, golden, in just the right amount. I like these addresses of sharing and generosity. »
6, rue des Fosses-Saint-Marcel, Paris 5e. €15 for the dish of the day and €41 for the 3-course menu.
His Japanese restaurant: Moemachi
“I went there with my son, who is an absolute fan of manga. We found the decor very exotic, unusual… with figurines, Pokémon and, above all, access to a manga library to read while eating. Our favorite dish? The takoyaki, these balls of octopus and vegetables, crispy, well grilled on the outside and soft on the inside. They cook them by the minute. »
166, rue Saint-Denis, Paris 2e. Count 35 € à la carte.
His brunch: Liberta
“For around thirty euros, it’s the generous buffet par excellence. All the Italian specialties are brought together and there is something for everyone. It’s simple, we want to taste everything! Because, in addition to being generous, it’s good. You have to book well in advance. »
23 rue Berger, Paris 1er. €32 for the all-you-can-eat buffet.