The stylists of stars, kingmakers of small brands

And there was light ! At the beginning of 2022, Arturo Obegero was unknown, or almost. This young fashion designer, who grew up in a fishing village in northern Spain, had made a discreet entry into Paris fashion week in March 2020, in a pandemic context that was not very favorable to flashes. For two years, he refined his romantic and sensual men’s wardrobe, appreciated on Instagram by a few hundred followers.

Then, in March 2022, ” everything changed “ when pop star Harry Styles paraded in his music video As it was in a sequined carmine ensemble by Arturo Obegero. “I barely had 5,000 followers on Instagram, and now I’m part of the Harry Styles community. His fans [près de 48 millions sur le réseau] text me to see if I’m going to dress her again. And then, the journalists know that I exist”sums up the designer, who has also seen an increase in sales after this tremendous spotlight that he knows he owes to Harry Styles’ stylist, the Briton Harry Lambert. “He was the one who contacted me, he trusted me, supported me”says the Spaniard.

Harry Styles wearing an Arturo Obegero ensemble in the 'As it was' music video.

Because if the stars are scrutinized from every angle on social networks, they do not dress alone: ​​it is generally a stylist who is responsible for their outfit. And for two or three years, many young fashion designers have seen their brand take off thanks to the growing influence of these kingmakers.

Until five years ago, designers were content to dress celebrities for their public appearances or their performances on stage; now, their work also extends into daily life. “Today, stylists ask us for sometimes tailor-made clothes for their star to take a picture of at home drinking tea”, notes Sébastien Meyer, co-founder of the Coperni label. That their look is as refined in the privacy of their apartment as on the red carpet is logical since on Instagram, their silhouette is “liked”, commented on and can be accompanied by commercial links to the clothes worn. Accounts – often run by fashion fans – such as “Check the Tag” have even taken to listing what stars are wearing, taking the trouble to mention which stylist dressed them.

Lady Gaga’s theatrical outfits

“All of this is recent, it’s only been two or three years since it really became an ecosystem”, says Lucien Pagès, who runs one of the most influential fashion press offices in Paris. Stylists have become super influencers than the American magazine HollywoodReporter is responsible for ranking in order of influence each year. Among them, Tom Eerebout and Sandra Amador (responsible for Lady Gaga’s theatrical outfits), Jamie Mizrahi (who accompanied Rihanna’s highly publicized pregnancy), or even Law Roach, architect of Celine Dion’s stylistic revival, and official stylist of Zendaya, whom he dresses with young designers (such as Nensi Dojaka and Peter Do) even though the actress is Valentino’s muse.

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