Monday February 5, at 7 p.m. (London time), the Michelin guide celebrated the launch of its fiftieth Great Britain and Ireland 2024 guide. And, for the first time in its history, the ceremony did not take place at London, but in Manchester, in the Midland Hotel, a neo-Gothic red brick building inaugurated in 1903, whose magnificence seems to attract large French companies: in December 2023, the Midland had already served as a base camp for the Chanel teams who organized a “crafts” parade in Manchester.
For Michelin, the choice of Manchester is not insignificant. It is about promoting the province and emphasizing that Anglo-Saxon gastronomy is not limited to the capital, an approach similar to that undertaken in France where, since 2022, the launch of the guide has no longer taken place in Paris . “Great Britain is no longer the poor relation of European gastronomy, there is no longer a culinary desert”rejoices a local inspector who worked on the development of the guide (and who must remain anonymous).
Within a rich selection, only one restaurant managed this year to achieve the maximum three-star award. This is The Ledbury, in London, located in the Notting Hill district. Recognized as a sure value in local gastronomy since its opening in 2005, the brand had to close for two years at the time of Covid-19, and then lost its two stars. At that time, Australian chef Brett Graham expressed doubts about his ability to reopen – he finally resumed business in early 2022. “The health crisis has hit restaurants very hard, there have been many bankruptcies, but we are seeing renewed dynamism, with 150 new restaurants in the guide this year”, comments the inspector.
Achari Spiced Potatoes
If The Ledbury has the classic profile of a three Michelin star establishment (modern and personal cuisine based on exceptional local products), more unexpected consecrations have taken place on the side of the two macaroons. Among the six new award-winning tables, two are Indian: Gymkhana in London and Opheem in Birmingham. “This is a historic moment for British gastronomy, the inspector was moved. Until now, this type of cuisine has always been quite popular. The two acclaimed restaurants are not only exceptional, but in very different genres. »
In the Mayfair district, Gymkhana offers a decor reminiscent of the clubs of colonial India; chef Karam Sethi offers a Perfectly executed North Indian cuisine, based on rather traditional dishes, such as chicken tikka masala, lamb rogan josh and vegetable biryani.
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