“I have been working in the world of gastronomy for a long time, but before writing this book, I was convinced that there were only about ten citrus fruits, whereas you can obtain an incredible quantity of them! » Creator of gourmet events (such as the Goûts de Rennes festival) and culinary author, Anne Etorre signs with The Big Citrus Book (Flammarion, 384 pages, 35 euros), a book as sharp as it is playful.
Originally conceived as an encyclopedia, it approaches its subject with great seriousness, thanks in part to the collaboration of Perrine and Etienne Schaller, owners of one of the largest citrus collections in the Pyrénées-Orientales, and proofreading by researchers from the National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment (Inrae ). Technical sheets, interviews with citrus growers, reports (in the Vessières nurseries, for example): everything, everything, everything, you will know everything about yuzu and its cousins.
But this big collection was not designed to gather dust in a university library. “I wanted to open up the closed universe of citrus fruits, to make it accessible also through the kitchen”, emphasizes Anne Etorre. Scattered throughout the pages are the creations of multi-starred masters: roasted grapefruit by Pascal Barbot or candied lemons by Mauro Colagreco. We are especially seduced by the hundred recipes as affordable as they are sexy offered in a whole half of the book by the author. Here is a starter, a main course and a dessert to rediscover citrus fruits through the palate.
Duck gravlax with kumquats
For 4 people
Preparation: 15 minutes
Rest: 12 hours
Ingredients :
- A beautiful duck breast
- 70 grams of coarse salt
- 50 grams of fine sugar
- 10 round kumquats
- 1 teaspoon of Espelette pepper
Prepare the duck breast by removing the small nerves and removing the skin.
Cut the kumquats into small pieces, taking care to remove the seeds and keeping the pulp and juice.
Thoroughly mix the salt, sugar, chilli and kumquats. Place a third of this marinade in a hollow, oval dish, ideally the size of the duck breast. Place the duck breast on the mixture and cover it with the rest. Place a film on contact, making sure that the assembly is well sealed.
Chill for twelve hours. At the end of these twelve hours, remove the duck breast from the film, rinse with clear water and dry. Cut into thin slices and serve as an aperitif or as a starter on toasted bread.
Cucugnan shells with bottarga and citron
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